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Update: last updated on 30/10/2010.

Cerro El Ñato (ca. 2800m).

1. Filo Suroeste
2. Luce de Leche
3. Filo Norte

There has been some confusion regarding the name of this mountain, which in some old publications has been called Cerro Doblado. For an explanation on the subject see CAI-Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo 1972/2 p. 835 or Bolletino SAT 1959/3 p. 13.

The 1916 Sociedad Científica Alemana expedition led by Alfredo Kolliker was responsible for the naming of this peak.

Climbing history.

Ettore Castiglioni, Leo Dubosc and Giovanni “Titta” Gilberti made the first ascent of the peak via the SW Ridge in 1937 (see below).

Cerro El Ñato - east face

1. Filo Suroeste

Ettore Castiglioni, Leo Dubosc and Giovanni “Titta” Gilberti (Italy), 8/2/1937.

Description. Above paso Tunel (Solo-Grande) cross the plateau in direction NW to reach the col between El Ñato and El Doblado, which the first ascencionists christened paso Doblado. From there climb the southwest ridge to the summit.

History. During the first ascent of the peak Castiglioni, Dubosc and Gilberti were caught by a storm but pushed on, climbing the highest and first technically difficult summit to have been climbed in the Southern Andes at the time. Count Aldo Bonacossa, the expedition’s sponsor and organizer went with them to the paso Doblado.

Approach. Glaciar Grande Superior to Paso Doblado (Ñato-Doblado).

Descent. Via the same route.

CAI-Rivista Mensile 1938/10-11 p. 466-475; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1946/3-4 p. 65-77; CAI-Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo 1953 p. 289-291; CAI- Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo 1972/2 p. 818-821; Bonacossa A. (1980) Una Vita per la Montagna, Tamari, Bologna.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Cerro Doblado, Cerro El Ñato y Cerro

Adela Sur - east face

Southeast ridge

2. Luce de Leche

600m 70º

Davide Brighenti and Alberto Rampini (Italy), 4/11/1987.

Description. The routes follows the prominent SE ridge.

History. Brighenti and Rampini climbed the route in a mere six hours, from a bivy at the base of the ridge.

Approach. Glaciar Grande Superior

Descent. Via Paso Doblado back to the plateau.

Bibliography. Mountain magazine 125 p. 13; Alp magazine 35 p. 21; Lo Scarpone 1988/5 p. 6-7; AAJ 1989 p. 176; Rivista della Montagna 96 p. 13; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1988/4 p. 76; Desnivel 36 p. 17.

Cerro Doblado, Cerro El Ñato y Cerro

Adela Sur - east face

Cerro Grande, Cerro El Ñato, Cerro

Adela Sur, Central y Norte - east face

3. Filo Norte

Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (I). 7.2.1958 (13:00 hs).

Description. Climb the north ridge from the col Trento (Adela Sur-Ñato).

History. This was the third of several summits that Bonatti and Mauri climbed while making an impressive traverse from Adela Central to Cerro Grande and Punta Luca. See Travesía del Cordón Adela for more details.

Approach. The first ascentionists approached this route from the summit of Adela Sur. If you are coming from the valley floor climb to Paso Doblado (Ñato-Doblado) and traverse the west face of Ñato to reach col Trento.

Descent. Via the SW ridge.

Bibliography. CAI-Rivista Mensile 1958/3-4 p. 114; CAI- Rivista Mensile 1959/1-2 p. 32-39; AAJ 1959 p. 317; Lo Scarpone 1958/1 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1958/2 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1958/5 p. 1; Lo Scarpone 1958/20 p.1; Mundo Argentino 10/9/58 #2480 p. 27-35; Leoplan a.24 #572 1/6/58 p. 1-8; Bonatti W. (1961), Le Mie Montagne, Zanichelli, Bologna (p. 191-214); Bonatti W. (1979) On the Heights, Diadem Books, London (p. 153-169); Rho F. and Mauri F. (1997) Carlo Mauri - Il Viaggiatore dei Sogni, Ferrari Ed., Clusone (p. 48-57); Bonatti W. (year?) Montagne de una vita, Ed? p. 137-152.

Cerro Doblado, Cerro El Ñato y Cerro

Adela Sur - east face

Cerro Grande, Cerro El Ñato, Cerro

Adela Sur, Central y Norte - east face

Cerro Adela Sur, Cerro El Ñato, Cerro

Doblado y Cerro Grande,- west face

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Cerro El ÑatoSouthwest ridge 1. Filo SuroesteSoutheast ridge2. Luce de LecheNorth ridge3. Filo NorteTraverseTravesía Adelas al Torre


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