Aguja Guillaumet - Cumbre Sur and ridge


30. Cumbre Sur

30.1 Plata o Plomo

Peter Lüthi (CH), Carlos Dominguez and Horacio Bresba (AR), 20/3/1990.

Climb part way up the Argentina on Aguja Mermoz to a point right below the notch that separates Mermoz from Guillaumet. Follow a steep crack (30m A1), to more mellow climbing above. From the summit the first ascensionists made a 45m rappel to the north and then reversed the Carrington-Rouse traverse to reach the main summit.

History. This was the first ascent of the Cumbre Sur. This was one of several unclimbed summits that Peter Lüthi climbed in the area, which include also the first ascent of Aguja Bifida and the first ascent of Aguja de la Silla. Bresba died of hypothermia a couple of years later while descending Fitz Roy in a bad storm, while Luthi, after living for over twenty years in Argentina is currently back in his native Saint Moritz, bracing himself for the end of the world as we know it...

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.

Descent. Via the Comesaña-Fonrouge or the Amy-Vidailhet routes.

30.1 Plata o Plomo

Cristopher "Kiff" Alcocer (US), Sam Lambert (CA), 20/02/2018

Approaches via the Argentina on Mermoz and climbs five new pitches to join the Cumbre Sur route. The first pitch has some dubious quality rock, the rest is stellar.

The name means "silver or lead": accept this bribe or get shot: here.

The first ascensionists descended west, down the line of ascent, then down the rappels of the Moto-Cross Traverse, to the gully, and down this to the ground.