Aguja Guillaumet - West face


24. Bossanova

400m 7a+ A1

Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman (USA), 12/2013.

Description. Climbs a line on the right side of the face, immediately right of Manos al Cielo. It starts up an obvious corner to then climb into a steep and beautiful left facing corner immediately right. The central and upper portion of the route is stellar, involving clean and steep handcracks (to 7a+) that lead to cracks that get wider, an off-width (some A0), a squeeze chimney (some A0) and a finger crack (some A1). One of the anchors in the central portion has a bolt, the only bolt on the route.

History. The first ascent was done in a day. The route's name refers to a certain style of Brazilian music that was popularized in the 1950s and 1960s. The name was given as one word although the music style is in two words.

Approach. Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.

Gear. Doubles to 4, triples on 1 to 3, one 5, stoppers.

Descent. The easiest descent is via Tee Pitelka, that has bolted anchors and rap slings. The first ascent party descended the Amy-Vidailhet route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face