Aguja Guillaumet - West face


3. Disfrute la Vida


450m 6c

Michal Pitelka (Czech) and Carsten Von Birckhahn (Germany), 11-12/1/2009.

Description. Climbs a line on the left side of the face, to the right of the ruta Polaca, just right of the huge roofs near the ground. The rock is solid throughout. Bolted anchors, plus three bolts to link cracks. Thirteen pitches total.

It was freed in 3/2017 by Seán Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee (BE). In the third pitch, instead of going right where the bolt is, they went left to an obvious "butt" crack.

Approach. Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.

Descent. Via the same route. Bolted anchors and rap slings.

Bibliography. AAJ 2009, pages 207 and 208.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face