Aguja Guillaumet - West face


27. Von Bürgermeister

400m 7a

Ben Erdmann and Jonathan Schaffer (US), 1/2015.

Description. Climbs a line on the right side of the face, just to the right of Rayo de Luz. The cracks are of varied sizes, with one off-width section involving a 20 meters long 7" crack. The crux is on the thrid pitch. The rock is solid throughout. No gear was left in place. Eleven pitches total.

History. The route name refers to the "boss"

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.

Pro. 2ea to #3, one 4 and one 5; 1ea TCUs, one set of stoppers.

Descent. Rappel Rayo de Luz, the route immediately left which has bolted anchors.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face