Aguja Mermoz - Northwest face


1. Argentina

600m 6a+

Héctor Cuiñas, Guillermo Vieiro and Fermín Olaechea (Argentina), 10/2/1974.

Description. Follow an obvious line of weakness up the NW face and on to the north ridge, up which you will wander around trying to find the easiest possible line. Decent rock, although the route is nothing special.

History. Ropes were fixed on the lower half of the route. Argentines Mario Castelazzo, Pippo Frasson and Eduardo Vivaldi attempted this line in 1967 climbing a few pitches before retreating. Horacio Vivaldi y Jorge de Leon were also part of that expedition. Later, in the 1971-72 season climbers from Centro Andino Buenos Aires made another attempt. Solo Ascents. Charlie Fowler (USA) in 12/1998; Rolando Garibotti in 9/2001.

Approach. Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of Guillaumet’s NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography.
First Ascent. Anuario CAB 1979 p. 18.
Fowler. AAJ 1999 p. 74-79, p. 338; High Magazine 203 p. 85.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Mermoz east face

Aguja Mermoz north face

Aguja Mermoz west face

Aguja Mermoz west face