Cerro Domo Blanco – North face
2. Son Of Jurel
500m 7a C1 50°
Jonathan Copp and Dylan Taylor (USA), 30-31/1/2002.
Description. Climbs a steep wall in the north face involving mostly cracks, finger to hand- size splitters, some of which were iced filled during the first ascent and had to be aided. With dry conditions this route could likely be free climbed.
History. Copp finished the last pitch by using a Camalot #4 as an “axe” to chip holds up in an ice runnel, yelling “rope fixed” although he had no anchor except for a precarious stance with one foot in a hueco and an elbow braced against the ice... The first ascensionists retreated from the top of the wall, without continuing on to the summit.
They named the route ‘Son of Jurel” after a combination of Jor-el, Superman’s father, (“because we were nearly forced to kneel before Zod”) and Jurel, a brand of canned fish Copp and Taylor subsisted on.
In 1999, French Laurence Monnoyeur and Bruno Sourzac attempted a rock spur just left of Son of Jurel. The retreated after climbing 150 meters, which involved mostly aid climbing up iced up cracks (A2 6a).
In 2001 Tom Dauer, David Götter and Michi Waerthl attempted a line to the right of Son of Jurel, climbing three pitches up a right facing corner before retreating. They retreated because they found a lot of loose rock.
In 2014 Mike Collins and Jonathan Schaffer attempted a line to the left of Son of Jurel retreating after climbing nine pitches with difficulties to 7a C2. They found the climbing hard and very wet. They bowed to return to finish the route. It climbs the crack system immediately right of an obvious horizontal roof.
Approach. Glaciar Marconi.
Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled a line to the far right of their line of ascent. |
