Domo Blanco – East face

4. La Suerte Sangrienta

500m 7a C1 M4

Chris Brazeau and Jon Walsh (Canada), Crystal Davis-Robbins (USA), January 2007.

Description. The first challenge is to find a way through the maze of crevasses to reach the base. Next, beware that the approach gully is exposed to rock fall. Try to climb it before the sun gets on it. A few easy pitches above the gully bring you to a steep headwall and three difficult pitches of perfect splitters. The most notable features included a corner with 30 meters of overhanging ringlocks and a short section of sideways off-width climbing, all on superb granite. These two pitches required a few moves of clean aid but would likely go free at 7b. A few more rock pitches bring you to the ice face leading to the summit.

History. Crystal got hit by rockfall twice in the approach gully, once in her forehead and once in the middle of the helmet, which broke in two...

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. The first ascensionists rappelled to climber’s right of their ascent route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Cerro Domo Blanco - east face

Cerro Domo Blanco - east face