Aguja Bifida – Punta Filip - West face
9. Su Patagunia
700m 6c A2
Paolo Cavagnetto, Roberto Giovanetto, Manlio Motto, Gianni Predan and Cesare Ravaschietto (Italy), 10-12/12/1996, to 30 meters below the summit.
Description. Overall the rock is quite good, but the climb is not as impressive and continuous as the nearby Hielo y Fuego. Sixteen pitches in all.
The first ascensionists thought that climbing the last 30 meters, to the actual summit, would require extensive drilling, so they retreated from that point. Three years later, a party found a way to climb those last 30 meters with no drilling, via a tension traverse, run-out climbing and some alpine trickery (see Amigos Perdidos).
History. The route was climbed over a three-day period, using 200 meters of fixed rope and making one bivouac at the top of the 7th pitch on the final push. Some of the rock sculptures on the route reminded the first ascensionists of the rock formations commonly found in Sardinia, so they decided to name the route in Sardinian dialect: “Su Patagunia” (the Patagonia).
Approach. Paso Marconi to Circo De los Altares or via Niponino and over Col Standhardt.
Descent. Via the same route (bolt anchors every 50 meters).
Bibliography. Rivista della Montagna 199 p. 12-13; High magazine 176 p. 74-76; Annales GHM 96/97 p. 38, p. 57; Pareti magazine 3 p. 19-20; Alp magazine 146 p. 96; Desnivel 130 p. 110.