Aguja Bifida - North-main summit - East and north face

3. Bonapace-Dünser

500m 6b A2

Tommy Bonapace and Gerold Dünser (Austria), 29-30/1/1992.

Description. Climb cracks left of the obvious crack leading to the col between the two summits. At an obvious break half way up, where the first ascentionists found a heavily iced up offwidht, traverse right on to the NE face. Here the line shares a couple of pitches with the NE buttress attempt and the last six with the Lüthi-Bresba route (750m altogether).

History. The 25 pitch route was climbed alpine style with one bivy at the half way break. No bolts were placed, which is no surprise coming from Bonapace. They were very surprised to find no anchors at the top. They were unaware that Lüthi and Bresba had down climbed the upper traversing pitches along the ridge and that Ferrari and partners had not reached the summit.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Rappel along the NE buttress, where many anchors are in place from Ferrari’s attempt.

Bibliography. AAJ 1993 p. 184-185; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14-21; High magazine 131 p. 17.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Bifida, Punta Filip, Cuatro

Dedos and CAT - overview

Aguja Bifida - east face

Aguja Bifida - northeast face

Aguja Bifida - north face