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Update: last updated on 04/11/2010.

Aguja Bifida – North summit - West face

4. Hielo y Fuego

550m 6b A3

Paolo Cavagnetto, Roberto Giovanetto, Manlio Motto, Gianni Predan and Cesare Ravaschietto (Italy), 5-6 and 8-9/12/1996.

Description. Climbs an impressive dihedral on the west face that leads to the north ridge the summit pinnacle. All belays (bolts) and 6 pitons were left in place in this 16 pitch route. The last two pitches are in common with the Luthi-Bresba route.

It is a very beautiful and striking line on exceptional rock. As the first ascensionists pointed out, this is one of the only routes out of Circo de los Altares that actually reaches a real summit, the only other two exceptions are Otra Vez on Standhardt and the Ragni route on Torre .

History. The route was climbed with fixed ropes over four days. During the ascent the first ascensionists experienced extremely cold and extremely warm weather, hence the name, Hielo y Fuego (fire and ice).

Approach. Paso Marconi to Circo De los Altares or via Niponino and over Col Standhardt .

Descent. Via the same route (bolt anchors every 50 meters).

Bibliography. Rivista della Montagna 199 p. 12-13; High magazine 176 p. 74-76; Annales GHM 96/97 p. 38, p. 57; Pareti magazine 3 p. 19-20; Alp magazine 146 p. 96; Desnivel 130 p. 110.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Bifida - west face

Aguja Bifida - southwest face

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Aguja Bifida & Punta FilipAguja Bifida - North summitEast and north face 1. Lüthi-Bresba 1.1 Gunnison Direct2. Espolon Noreste3. Bonapace-Dünser West face4. Hielo y Fuego
Aguja Bifida - South summitEast face and south ridge 5. Filo Sur 6. Cheoma7. Cogan7.1 Alternate start7.2 Siren to Cogan variation12. The Siren
Punta Filip (Ag. Bífida NW summit)East face 8. Amigos PerdidosWest face 9. Su Patagunia13. Shelter from the Cow14. Espera que pegue
Perfil de IndioNorth ridge 10. Filo Norte11. Rime Storm Cowboys


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