Aguja Bifida – North summit - West face
4. Hielo y Fuego
550m 6b A3
Paolo Cavagnetto, Roberto Giovanetto, Manlio Motto, Gianni Predan and Cesare Ravaschietto (Italy), 5-6 and 8-9/12/1996.
Description. Climbs an impressive dihedral on the west face that leads to the north ridge the summit pinnacle. All belays (bolts) and 6 pitons were left in place in this 16 pitch route. The last two pitches are in common with the Luthi-Bresba route.
It is a very beautiful and striking line on exceptional rock. As the first ascensionists pointed out, this is one of the only routes out of Circo de los Altares that actually reaches a real summit, the only other two exceptions are Otra Vez on Standhardt and the Ragni route on Torre .
History. The route was climbed with fixed ropes over four days. During the ascent the first ascensionists experienced extremely cold and extremely warm weather, hence the name, Hielo y Fuego (fire and ice).
Approach. Paso Marconi to Circo De los Altares or via Niponino and over Col Standhardt .
Descent. Via the same route (bolt anchors every 50 meters).
Bibliography. Rivista della Montagna 199 p. 12-13; High magazine 176 p. 74-76; Annales GHM 96/97 p. 38, p. 57; Pareti magazine 3 p. 19-20; Alp magazine 146 p. 96; Desnivel 130 p. 110. |
