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Update: last updated on 01/02/2016.

Aguja Bifida - South summit - East buttress

7. Cogan

700m 6a 40˚

Paul Bruckner and Georg Shöerghofer (Austria), 19-21/2/1993, to where their line joins Cheoma, 100 meters from the top. Crystal Davis-Robbins and Nico Gutierrez to the top, in 2008.

Description. Climbs the spur of the east buttress of the South summit. The 24 pitches to where it joins Cheoma, 100 meters below the top, go mostly free and involve some mixed climbing.

History. The first ascentionists retreated after joining the Cheoma because they found severely ice up cracks. They bivied twice on the route, once ascending and once descending. The route is named after the “bad” knight in the movie Highlander, the Kurgan. It is unclear if the name Cogan is a misspelling by the first ascensionists or if it is misspelled on purpose or it might be the german translation. Georg Shöerghofer was killed in the late 1990s. He had visited the Chalten massif many times.

Davis-Robbins and Gutierrez repeated the route with some variations in 2008. They climbed the route in one day, rappeling through the night, finding difficulties to 6c and A1.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Via the same route. Bring a lot of cord!

Bibliography. AJ 1994 p. 281; High magazine 131 p. 17; Desnivel magazine 86 p. 99.

 

Photos (click to enlarge)


Aguja Bifida, Punta Filip, Cuatro

Dedos and CAT - overview


Aguja Bifida - east face


Aguja Bifida - southeast face



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Aguja Bifida & Punta FilipAguja Bifida - North summitEast and north face 1. Lüthi-Bresba 1.1 Gunnison Direct2. Espolon Noreste3. Bonapace-Dünser West face4. Hielo y Fuego
Aguja Bifida - South summitEast face and south ridge 5. Filo Sur 6. Cheoma7. Cogan12. The Siren
Punta Filip (Ag. Bífida NW summit)East face 8. Amigos PerdidosWest face 9. Su Patagunia13. Shelter from the Cow
Perfil de IndioNorth ridge 10. Filo Norte11. Rime Storm Cowboys

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