Aguja de l'S - South face


8. The Gentlemen's Club


400m 7a

Hayden Kennedy (USA) and Jason Kruk (Canada), 12/2011.

Description. Climb the initial 500-meter "approach" of Thaws not Houlding Wright involving moderate rock climbing up easy slabs somewhat reminiscent of the Royal Arches in Yosemite. At the upper headwall traverse right, along The Art of War to an obvious crack system up and right once past the red rock. Climb seven long pitches up the steep headwall. Two of those pitches are around 7a, the rest are "meat and potatoes" crack climbing at around 6b. From the top of the headwall traverse north on easy ground, then up one more long pitch to reach the summit. The first ascentionists described the upper part as being reminiscent of Astroman, with very high quality rock. Royal Arches to Astroman it is. 900m altogether.

History. Hayden and Jason started up in the late afternoon and had a "high" bivy at the base of the upper headwall before firing to the top the next morning. Should you want to repeat that feat don't forget two doobies.

Approach. Before Niponino.

Pro. Two doobies.

Descent. Down the via Austriaca along the north ridge.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja De l'S southwest face

Aguja De l'S south face

Aguja De l'S west face