Aguja de l'S - South face
9. Carne y Papas
300m 7a+ A0
Josh Huckaby and Mikey Schaefer (US), 1/2013.
Description. Climb the initial 500-meter "approach" of Thaws not Houlding Wright involving moderate rock climbing up easy slabs somewhat reminiscent of the Royal Arches in Yosemite. In the upper headwall “Carne y Papas” climbs an obvious crack system between The Gentlemen's Club and The Wormhole Theory. It starts by climbing the first two pitches of The Art of War to then traverse right. Schaefer freeclimbed until two pitches from the ridge, finding difficulties to 7a+ and A0.
History. The name refers to the American expression “meat and potatoes”, which describes the basis or fundamental parts of something, in this case describing the character of the climbing, granite cracks and corners.
Approach. Before Niponino.
Descent. The classiest descent involves climbing over Saint-Exupery, Rafael Juarez, Poincenot, Fitz Roy, rappeling Pilar Goretta to pass behind Val Biois and reach Mermoz, climbing over that to reach Guillaument, tagging the summit and hiking down to Piedra Negra. This "descent" would redefine the concept of "failing upwards". Dinner (or dinners) on me if you pull it off.
Photos (click to enlarge)
Aguja De l'S southwest face
Aguja De l'S south face
Aguja De l'S west face