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Update: last updated on 24/02/2018.

Aguja de l'S - East face

1. Cara Este and Variations

450m 6a 30°

Bernard Amy and partners (France), February 1968.

Description. The route climbs an obvious red colored dihedral on the left side of the east face, to reach a series of ledges and steps that are traversed to reach the south ridge of the summit pinnacle. This face provides many different possible routes of ascent all of which follow the same type of terrain.

History. The original objective of the first ascentionists was the east pillar of Cerro Fitz Roy, but they had to content themselves with the first ascent of Aguja de l’S and two new routes on Aguja Guillaumet.

In February 1976, Ted Coates and Hugh Logan (NZ) climbed the Cara Este route approaching from the Cerro Torre valley, via the couloir between Mojón Rojo and De L's. They were the first to climb that couloir.

In early 1989 Miroslav Sevilevski and Valentin Trenev from Bulgaria climbed a possible variation in the center of the SE face.

In March of 1993, German Rolf Thausing soloed a line that traverse across the east face, “Baby Face”, mostly easy with one section 5 (Variation 1.3).

In early 1994, Kako Pardiñas and Omar Moscoso from Argentina climbed a line on the far left side of the SE face, mostly easy with one section 6a+, which they named “Josh Aike” (Variation 1.2).

In late 1995 Cameron Burns (Australia), Julian Fisher and Charlie French (UK) climbed six new pitches on the red colored pillar, just to the right of the first ascent route, “Voie Fisher”, 5+ on good rock (Variation 1.4).

Approach. Laguna Sucia.

Descent. Via the same route.

Trenev: AAJ 1990 p. 210.
Thausing: AAJ 1994 p.185.
Burns: AAJ 1996 p.233; Climber 1997/1 p. 44-51.
See also: High Magazine 142 p.42; High Magazine 164 p.31.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja De l'S east face

Aguja De l'S east face

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Aguja De l'SEast face1 Cara Este 1.2 Josh Aike 1.3 Baby Face1.4 Voie Fisher 2. Qui se souvient des Hommes3. Femme de ma vie3.1 Haizea4. AustriacaWest face12. Los del Maipo5. Jugo de Hielo6. Thaws not Houlding WrightSouth face7. The Art of War11. Besos to Pesos8. The Gentlemen's Club10. Carne y Papas9. The Wormhole Theory


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