News and major updates
17/12/2014Gestión de Riesgo - Risk Management
El gran número de accidentes que ocurren en comparación al número de usuarios es preocupante. Acá presentamos un primer intento a una ayuda memoria sobre los puntos a tomar en consideración antes de embarcarse en una ascensión. Sugerimos también leer las paginas de la guía relacionadas con “como sobrevivir” y rescates. En español pdf aca.
The huge number of accidents that have been happening in comparison to the number of users is worrisome. Here we present a first attempt at a list of considerations to take into account before embarking on a climb. We also suggest reading carefully the pages of the guidebook that relate to staying alive and rescue. English pdf here.
16/12/2014Fin de semana trágico - Tragic weekend
Nuestros más sentido pésame para con la familia y amigos de Pablo Argiz, piloto del helicóptero que cayo durante el rescate de un escalador aleman este pasado fin de semana. Argiz se puso a disposición de forma desinteresada, despreocupado por el cobro de su trabajo, preocupado por el bienestar del herido. Tristemente su generosidad, predisposición y entusiasmo le costaron muy caros.
Our thoughts with the family and friends of Pablo Argiz, the pilot of the helicopter that crashed during the rescue of a german climber this past weekend. Argiz made himself available, unconcerned about getting paid, concerned for the well being of the injured climber. His generosity, predisposition and enthusiasm cost him dearly.
Más info aquí. More info here.
In mid March 2014 Erich and Stefan Gatt (AT) climbed the fin like tower between Colmillo Norte and Aguja Volonqui which they christened Pizarra Escondida. They called their route "Alfajores, chauras y demás". It follows the Carrington-Rouse to right below the ridge (300m to 60˚) to then head left to the col, climbing two pitches on the east face of the tower (30m 6b, 30m 6b A2) to reach the summit. They rappelled the route. Here.
New lines on Tito Carrasco and Saint-Exúpery and a second sit-start to the Californiana.
Joel Enrico and Adam Ferro climbed a new line on Aguja Tito Carrasco, a tower that has become very popular. Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Sylvan Schupbach climbed a new variation to Chiaro di Luna on Aguja Saint-Exúpery and earlier had climbed a sit-start to the Californiana on Cerro Fitz Roy reaching the base via the couloir between Aguja de la Silla and the southwest face of Fitz Roy, following the "approach" of Destreza Criolla then continuing up the couloir to the Col de los Americanos, a line first climbed by Crystal Davis-Robbins and Nico Gutierrez in 2009. Della Bordella, Schiera and Schupbach then climbed the Filo Este of Aguja de la Silla, linking it the next day to the Californiana. In all they covered close to 2000 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 6a+ C1 and M4/5. In 2002 Dean Potter soloed a different "sit start" to the Californiana, see the "Solo Ascents" section of the Californiana.
The North Pillar Sit Start
Some weeks ago Julian Poush, Kevin Prince and Austin Siadak did the second ascent of The North Pillar Sit Start. This is one of the longest climbs in the area. Siadak who last year also climbed the Care Bear Traverse thinks that the Sit Start is slightly harder and of slightly better quality. They completed the ascent in four days, climbing an important variation starting at the very lowest point of Aguja Mermoz's NW ridge. Description here; photo here.
Cerro Grande - Punta Sordo
Rafael Heer, Juan Jerez and Juan Manuel Raselli did the first ascent of the last unclimbed summit in the west ridge of Cerro Grande, a voluptuously rimed summit. They approached from the west, climbing the long west ridge of Cerro Grande and christened it Punta Sordo.
Aguja Tito Carrasco, El Hombro and Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros.
Mike Collins and Jonathan Schaffer have climbed several new routes in the Marconi Valley, one on the west face of Aguja Tito Carrasco, another one on El Hombro, a formation just west of Tito Carrasco and one more on the north ridge of Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, to the right of the north face of Cerro Domo Blanco. They also made an attempt on the north face of Cerro Domo Blanco proper, but they were turned back by wet rock.
Patagonia Vertical - Updates and corrections - 2012/13.
We have put together a pdf document with updates and corrections to the English language version published in 11/2012. We suggest you print these pages to have them as an appendix to the guidebook.
New routes, variations and significant ascents.
- West face attempt, impressive effort.
- Desarmada, SCUD gets an integral ascent and "joined-existing-line-no-summit-new-route-concept" discussion.
Aguja de la Medialuna
- La Media Docena, a pleasant looking new route on the left side of the face.
Perfil de Indio
- Rime Storm Cowboys, an impressive 80-meter waterfall on the east face.
Cerro Domo Blanco
- Superdomo, never has a new route become so popular so fast.
- Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, D'Artagnan, new route and first ascent.
- Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, Filo del Tornado, new route.
- Cara Este, the first complete ascent of the peak.
- El Busca Jesus, an alternate finish to Rayuela.
- Aguja Tito Carrasco, three new routes: Atari; Ippon and Halle Berry.
- El Hombro: Free Cowboy Hats, new route.
- Aguja El Tridente, first ascent and two new routes: La Piqueta Voladora and The Secret of the Mountain.
- Cumbrecitas, first ascent of two small summits south of Gran Gendarme.
- Ruleta Trentina, a very dangerous new route.
- El Lobito, new route and the first ascent of the peak to the very top.
Cordón Marconi - Aguja Dumbo
- Vstala Primorska, new route and the first ascent of the peak.
Cerro Marconi Central
- La Superwhillans, a beautiful easy new route and the first ascent of the peak.
Cordón del Cerro Fitz Roy
- The Fitz Traverse, the climb of the season by a long long shot.
- Austin Siadak, Julian Poush and Kevi Prince complete the second ascent of the lengthy North Pillar Sit Start, climbing an important new variation starting at the very toe of the buttress.
Cerro Fitz Roy
- Tango Libre, 450m of new terrain in the lower west pillar connecting to the Afanassieff.
- Bossanova, beautiful line on the west face.
- Klettertren, two variations to the Beger-Jennings route.
- Beger-Jennings, Colin Haley solos the link up with Courrier du Sud and Terre des Hommes in a little over 2 hs.
- So Long Charlie, ice smear variation to the Fowler route.
- Richard-Simmons, classy variation to the Coqueugniot-Guillot.
- Macleod-Muskett, difficult mixed line right of the Amy-Vidailhet.
Banff Mountain Book Competition
A few weeks ago we noted that we had made it into the guidebook category finalists list at the 2013 Banff Mountain Book Competition. Now we are pleased to announce that the jury has given Patagonia Vertical the Guidebook Award! We are incredibly honored and stoked. More info here.
06/10/2013The Mysteries of Rime Mushrooms
Dave Whiteman, Research Professor at the University of Utah and Rolando Garibotti published an article about the mysteries of rime mushrooms in the September issue of the Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, a peer review journal. Many climbers provided photos and information for this article, see the acknowledgements section of the article. The article can be read HERE.
22/03/20132012-2013 Season Overview
New routes, variations and significant ascents.
- Dulce de Leche, new route
- The Via dei Ragni finally gets its place as the normal route up Torre.
- Directa Huarpe, an impressive new line
- "Fair Means" Corkscrew
- Notti Magiche, new route
- A direct start to the Lüthi-Bresba, the Gunnison Direct.
Agujas CAT, Cuatro Dedos, Atchachila and Pachamama
- Travesía Manos y Mas Manos, seven summits in a row...
Aguja Tito Carrasco
- Zigzag, variation.
Gran Gendarme del Pollone
- No Entiendo, new route
- The Perfekt Day, new route
Aguja Pollone and Cumbre Este
- Sit-Start & Traverse
- La Granja, variation
- Dirigo, new route
- The Gambler variation, Tierra de Traucas
- Hypermermoz, two new variations
- Vol de Nuit to the summit
Cerro Fitz Roy
- Un Mar de Sueños, the new route of the season in this massif.
- El Corazon, second ascent.
- The Real Kekec, new route on Pilar Goretta
- Mate, Porro y Todo los Demás, the girls pull down!
- Guasos on the Rock, a long variation on Pilar Goretta
- Samba do Leao, new route
- Persiguiendo el Avion, new route
- Afanassieff, previously unreported variations and more girls pulling down.
Aguja de la Silla
- Carril Rapido, new route
Aguja Kakito "group"
- Punta Kavarovsk
- Judgement Day, free ascent
Aguja Rafael Juárez
- Los Sanjuaniños, variation
Aguja de l'S
- Carne y Papas, new route
- Besos to Pesos, new route
- El Zorro, major new route
© 2014 Rolando Garibotti & Dörte Pietron.
PATAGONIA VERTICAL -
Macizo de El Chaltén
A complete guidebook to the Chaltén Massif. Winner of the Guidebook Award at the Banff Film and Book Festival. Read more
Una guía completa para
las montañas del Macizo
de El Chaltén. Ganador del Premio a la Mejor Guia de Montaña en el Festival de Cine y Libros de Banff, Canada.
PATAGONIA VERTICAL -
Cerro Catedral - Frey
Guía completa para
las agujas del Cerro Catedral, zona del Refugio Emilio Frey, Bariloche. Más información
A complete guidebook to the towers of Cerro Catedral, area of Refugio Emilio Frey, Bariloche.
Updates & Corrections
- Aguja Tito Carrasco and "Hombro": more details and route names for the recent new routes:
Free Cowboy Hats
- Cerro Grande.
- We have updated the petition in support of the de-bolting of the Compressor Route to reflect the "Special Mention" that the de-bolting was awarded at the 2013 Piolets d'Or and also to include the support of Ermanno Salvaterra and some considerations that Nico Favresse made in an interview with Desnivel. In english here, en español aquí.
- We have updated the SE Ridge and Compressor Route pages to reflect the "Special Mentions" received at the 2013 Piolet d'Or by the rope teams Kennedy-Kruk and Lama-Ortner, for the first ascent of the SE Ridge, for the de-bolting of the Compressor Route and for the free ascent of the SE Ridge.