Torre Egger - East Face

4. Titanic

4.1 Martin-O’Neill link-up
4.2 Winter link-up
4.3 Winter Solo link-up
4.4 Marc-André's Vision variation

950m 7b 90˚

Guido Cominelli, Lorenzo Nadali and Andrea Sarchi (IT) first 500m, 1987; Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi, (IT), 1987, upper half, jumaring ropes left by the previous team; Marc-Andre Leclerc (CA) and Austin Siadak (US) first integral ascent, 2016.

Description. A very impressive line up Torre Egger's east buttress. The jewel of this route is a six pitch hanging ice runnel in the lower third. It starts left of the “Italian” route climbing smooth granite slabs that in two pitches lead to the ice runnel. Moderate rock then leads to a snowfield and cracks right of the hanging prow. The first ascentionists found a natural tunnel to overcame the summit mushroom, but parties in the last few years have been climbing the mushroom by countouring it on the south side.

History. Giarolli and Orlandi’s original intent was to attempt the Torre Traverse, but after spending much of their energy hauling ten days of food and gear to within 100 meters of the summit of Standhardt they gave up. Guido Cominelli, Lorenzo Nadali and Andrea Sarchi had attempted this line a month earlier. They reached the obvious snowfield half way up and left 500 meters of ropes fixed. Giarolli and Orlandi used those ropes during their ascent, not re-climbing that lower half. The route is named after the upper pillar, that reminds of the prow of a ship. First integral ascent, first free ascent. In early Ocotber 2016 Marc-Andre Leclerc (CA) supported by Austin Siadak (US) climbed the route over two days, with Marc-Andre freeing the entire climb. A couple of days earlier they had fixed the first two pitches.

Approach. Niponino to Noruegos to Glaciar Torre Superior.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. Lo Scarpone 1988/9 p. 8-9; Mountain 125 p. 13; Alp magazine 44 p. 76-83; AAJ 1988 p. 52-55; Rivista della Montagna 96 p. 12-13; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1988/4 p. 76; Bolletino SAT 1988/1 p. 23-26; Vertical 16 p.72-73.

4.1 Martin-O’Neill link-up.

950m (100m new) 6b A1 80˚

Timy O’Neill and Nathan Martin (USA), 2002.

Description. They climbed ten pitches of the Italian route, then moved left, climbing an three pitch variation to join Titanic.

History. Peter Janschek (South Africa) and Much Mayr (Austria) were the first to attempt it. Martin and O'Neill completed it in 59 hours round trip. It has seen many repeats since. Steph Davis and Dean Potter repeated it in 2006, taking 23 hours up.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Noruegos.

Descent. Via the same route.

4.2 Winter link-up.

In August of 2010 Swiss climbers Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf and Stefan Siegrist made the first winter ascent of the peak climbing up the Italian line to then traverse to join Titanic at the obvious snowfield half way up. They took three days round trip. Siegrist had done the climb previously.

4.3 Winter solo link-up.

In September of 2016, Marc-Andre Leclerc (CA) made the first winter solo ascent of the peak, which was also the second winter ascent and the second solo ascent. He started via a gully right below the serac, linking into the Winter link-up line, to then climb the upper half of Titanic. After a failed attempt a few days earlier, he completed the route is 21 hours round trip. This is one of the most impressive solo ascents ever, anywhere.

4.4 Marc-André's Vision variation

In early 2019, Brette Harrington (US) and Quentin Lindfield Roberts (CA) climbed the first three pitches of Titanic, then climbed nine new pitches on the steep pillar to the left, rejoining Titanic at the obvious snowfield, half way up the wall from where they retreated. They called their line “Marc-André's Vision”, as it was Marc-André Leclerc who discovered this line and had hoped to attempt it. Brette and Quentin found difficulties to 5.12+ and hope to return next season to continue pushing their line upward, likely linking into Badlands.