Torre Egger – South face
850m 90˚ 6b A3+ WI4+
Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding and Jay Smith, (USA), 12/12/1994.
Description. An impressive climb involving lots of hard aid on excellent rock. The first few pitches follow a line just right of Psycho Vertical, up the exposed gully that splits CT from Egger. The route then climbs right, on to steep cracks, traversing left under a big overhang. The upper part provides some of the most esthetic climbing in Patagonia, especially the pitch known as the “Century” crack. It shares the last two pitches with Titanic, a natural tunnel through the mushroom that existed at the time (950m altogether).
History. It took four months of efforts spread over two years to finish this difficult route, which was climbed almost in its entirety with fixed ropes. The climb was left completely clean by the first ascent party for future repeats to enjoy. This is a commendable effort in an area where most parties feel entitled to leave their ropes behind, trashing the terrain for future repeats. “Badlands” certainly deserves its name. Jay Smith considered this the most difficult ascent of his long and fruitful career.
Approach. Niponino to Noruegos to Glaciar Torre Superior.
Bibliography. AAJ 1996 p. 19-27; High magazine 152 p. 14-15; Desnivel 106 p. 91; Kletern magazine 1996/5 p. 84-89; Vertical 78 p. 47-48.
Photos (click to enlarge)
Torre Egger and Aguja Standhardt
Torre Egger south face
Torre Egger northeast face