Torre Egger - West Face
7. Notti Magiche
800m new (1000m altogether) 7a A2 90˚
Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera (IT), 3/2013.
Description. Climbs a series of obvious dihedrals immediately left of the west face, reaching the Col de Lux where it joins the Huber-Schnarf route, along which it climbs five pitches to reach the summit.
History. Domenico Chindamo and Paolo Crippa supported by Giambattista Villa (all from Valmadrena, Lecco) attempted this line in 1986, retreating after 150m. Adriano Cavallaro and Ermanno Salvaterra (IT) made an attempt in 1997, climbing a further 150m (300m total). Both teams considered it dangerous due to falling ice.
In the 2010-11 and 2011-12 seasons Italians Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo della Bordella made a number of attempts. Between both seasons they fixed 17 pitches to eventually make an attempt that took them to a point 20 meters below the Col de Lux. At their last belay a number of pieces pulled and they were left hanging from a single piece, a 0.3 camalot. Feeling lucky to be alive they decided to retreat. To that point they had climbed 23 pitches with difficulties to 7a and A2, placing only two bolts. They tentatively named their attempt "Die Another Day" in reference to their anchor almost pulling and coming close to falling to their deaths.
In February of 2013 Della Bordella and Bernasconi returned with Luca Schiera. After Bernasconi had to leave Della Bordella and Schiera completed the ascent, ascending some of the fixed ropes placed the previous seasons, those that were not shreded to pieces, and reclimbing to just below their 2012 high-point. Here they climbed left, following a slightly different line to reach the Col de Lux where they joined the Huber-Schnarf to continue along this to the summit (1000m altogether). They bivied twice in the ascent, around pitch 16 and at the Col de Lux, and once in the descent, at the top of the obvious dihedral.
After completing their climb they retrieved all their fixed ropes as well as a two piece aluminum ladder they had used during the 2011-12 season to breach creavasses.
Approach. Circo de los Altares, via the Col Standhardt or Paso Marconi.
Photos (click to enlarge)
Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro
Torre west face