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Update: last updated on 20/04/2019.

Aguja Saint-Exupery - North face

3. Kearney-Harrington

3.1 Glick-Davis
3.2 Bienvenidos en Patagonia

400m 30˚ 6a

Sue Harrington and Alan Kearney (USA), 9-10/2/1988.

Description. Climbs an obvious left leaning ramp on the NW face, to reach the NE ridge, where it traverses left on reach the Italian route. There are a number of variations in the first four pitches to reach the left leaning ramp, all of them of about the same difficulty. To cross the snowfields on the Italian route boots and crampons might be necessary. 550m altogether.

History. Ricardo Tylka and Fernando “Chino” Heredia (Argentina) first attempted this line was in 1978. They reached a point not far below the NE ridge, having climbed 250 meters. Solo ascents. Rolando Garibotti, 12/1996, in 11 hours round trip from the Polacos camp (4hs for the route). Colin Haley (USA) in 2011. Josh McClure (USA) in 2012, as part of a solo link-up of Saint Exupery and Aguja de l'S (18 hs round trip from Polacos to Polacos, 4:15 for the Kearney-Harrington). On 3/2019, Jim Reynolds free-solo downclimbed this route, having free-soloed up Chiaro di Luna, he carried no gear or rope, he onsighted both routes.

Approach. Polacos.

Descent. Via the same route.

Kearney. AAJ 1989 p. 176-178; Climbing Magazine 110 p. 72-76.
Tylka. AAJ 1978 p. 585; Andinismo # 1/78 p. 54-55.
Garibotti. AAJ 1997 p. 117-122; High Magazine 176 p. 77-78.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery west face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery north face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery north face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery east face

3.1 Glick-Davis

In 2002 Lorne Glick and Mark Davis (USA) climbed a variation, climbing right, on after 200 meters, following a steep crack system parallel to Bienvenidos a Patagonia (120m , 6b+).

3.2 Bienvenidos en Patagonia

In 1999 Charlie Fowler and Nathan Martin (USA) climbed 5 new pitches branching off to the right of the left leaning ramp, to reach the NE ridge two pitches from the summit. This variation is parallel to the finishing chimney of Chiaro di Luna. No fixed gear was left on the route (300m 6c+).

Bibliography. AAJ 1999 p. 74-79, p. 338; High Magazine 203 p. 84.

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Aguja Saint-ExupéryEast face 1. Italiana1.1 Kozulj - Magaldi2. Ural PathNorth face3. Kearney-Harrington3.1 Glick-Davis3.2 Bienvenidos en PatagoniaWest face5. Chiaro di Luna5.1 Los Angelitos5.2 Super Trek5.3 Can Accompany Only6. Crouch-Brooks6.1 Tical7. Last Gringo StandingSouth face8. Austriaca 9. Attempt10. Le Petit Prince10.1 Driel-Fine11. Condorito12. AstrochossTraverseTravesía Copp-Wharton


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