Aguja Saint-Exupery - Southwest face
400m 6b C1 or 7a!
Greg Crouch and J.Jay Brooks (USA), February 1999. Jvan Tresch (Switzerland) and Ben Bransby (UK) in 2004 to the summit.
History. Crouch and Brooks climbed the line to where it joins the Austriaca from where they were driven back by bad weather. In 2004 Jvan Tresch (Switzerland) and Ben Bransby (UK) climbed a very similar line, with some major variations in the lower portion (see Tical below). Earlier, in 1995, Miyazaki Motohiko (Japan) made several solo attempts to climb a new route slightly left of this line, but was driven back by bad weather and the difficulties that involved undertaking a project of this kind alone. He had hoped to free climbing terrain, but found just dirty C1 pitches.
Approach. Polacos to Col de los Austriacos.
Descent. Via the same route or the Austriaca or Chiaro di Luna.
Bibliography. AAJ 1999 p. 337; High Magazine 203 p. 84.
Photos (click to enlarge)
Saint-Exupery north face
Saint-Exupery southwest face
Saint-Exupery west face
In 2004 Jvan Tresch (Switzerland) and Ben Bransby (UK) climbed a very similar line with some variations in the lower portion and continued on to the summit after joining the Austrian route. The first five pitches follow a corner and chimney leading to the a vein that crosses the whole mountain. Climbing through this vein is the crux of the route: a scary and committing pitch, from which a fall could result in serious injury. The slab climbing just above is relatively amenable 7a X (exposed)... Reaching the golden granite again, more cracks, ramps and flakes lead onto the south ridge and a junction with the Austriaca (approximately five pitches from the summit). The first ascentionists climbed the entire route free. Upon reaching the Austriaca, Jvan’s anger increased exponentially with each unnecessary bolt that they passed until they came upon one bolt shockingly placed next to a perfect crack. This turned Jvan into climbing’s own Incredible Hulk and he removed it with his bare hands...