Aguja Saint-Exupery - West face
5. Chiaro di Luna
5.1 Los Angelitos
5.3 Can Accompany Only
Maurizio Giordani, Rosanna Manfrini and Sergio Valentini (IT), 4-5/11/1987.
Description. For the grade it is one of the best free routes in the area. It starts 30 meters up the basalt dike. Twenty pitches aprox.
History. The first ascentionists descended in the moonlight, hence the name.
Solo ascents. Alexander Huber (DE) in 2011, with one bivy. In early 2015 Brette Harrington (US) did the first free-solo ascent taking a mere three hours. With this ascent she became the first woman to have soloed one of the towers in the massif. Less than ten days later Marc-André Leclerc (CA) did the second free-solo ascent.
Descent.You can descend the route for which you will need to bring a lot of cord and a hammer. The faster descent is down straight from the base of the upper chimney to reach the Kearney-Harrington ramp and down this directly into the couloir. This second option requires that you bring boots and crampons with you.
Bibliography. Mountain Magazine 125 p. 13; AAJ 1989 p. 176; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1988/4 p. 76; Rivista della Montagna 96 p. 13; Lo Scarpone 1988/5 p. 7; Lo Scarpone 1988/11 p.11; Samas/Alpinismo Oggi (1991) p. 14-15.