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Update: last updated on 14/03/2014.

Aguja Saint-Exupery - West face


5. Chiaro di Luna

5.1 Los Angelitos
5.2 Supertrek
5.3 Can Accompany Only


750m 6b+

Maurizio Giordani, Rosanna Manfrini and Sergio Valentini (IT), 4-5/11/1987.

Description. For the grade it is one of the best free routes in the area. It starts 30 meters up the basalt dike. Twenty pitches aprox.

History. The first ascentionists descended in the moonlight, hence the name.
Solo ascents. Alexander Huber (DE) in 2011, with one bivy. In early 2015 Brette Harrington (US) did the first free-solo ascent taking a mere three hours. With this ascent she became the first woman to have soloed one of the towers in the massif. Less than ten days later Marc-André Leclerc (CA) did the second free-solo ascent.

Approach. Polacos.

Descent.You can descend the route for which you will need to bring a lot of cord and a hammer. The faster descent is down straight from the base of the upper chimney to reach the Kearney-Harrington ramp and down this directly into the couloir. This second option requires that you bring boots and crampons with you.

Bibliography. Mountain Magazine 125 p. 13; AAJ 1989 p. 176; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1988/4 p. 76; Rivista della Montagna 96 p. 13; Lo Scarpone 1988/5 p. 7; Lo Scarpone 1988/11 p.11; Samas/Alpinismo Oggi (1991) p. 14-15.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery north face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery north face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery west face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery west face


5.1 Los Angelitos

In 1995 Thomy Bonapace (Austria) and Julian Hevia (Spain) climbed an 8-pitch variation start on the north face (300m 6b). They climbed a dihedral and cracks 100 meters left of the NW buttress, to join Chiaro di Luna at the obvious ledge half way up. The quality of the rock is questionable at times. While returning to camp at a very late hour Julian fell while traversing a snowfield without crampons and slid out of control 250 meters before managing to self arrest not far from a cliff band. As he fell, he saw many angels hovering around him: Los Angelitos. The first ascentionists descended the upper portion of Chiaro di Luna to the base of the upper chimney, from where they rappelled straight down to the Kearney-Harrington route. This has become the preferred rap line.

Bibliography. Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 21.


5.3 Can Accompany Only

In early 2014 Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera (IT) and Silvan Schupbach (CH) climbed a variation heading up and right, climbing 150 meters of easy terrain, followed by two pitches up a series of flakes (50m 5, 60m 6a), reaching after another 20 meters (4+) the base of a dihedral with a finger crack. This dihedral is the crux pitch (7a) and offers very good climbing. After 35 meters they exited right to another crack system (40m 6c) traversing to the left when the climbing becomes easier to reach the col between the two summits and join the Austríaca. Three more pitches (to 6b) lead to the summit. In this section they climbed the line followed during the first ascent of Last Gringo Standing which might differ slightly from the original line of the Austriaca, which is supposed to be slightly easier (to 6a).



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Aguja Saint-ExupéryEast face 1. Italiana1.1 Kozulj - Magaldi2. Ural PathNorth face3. Kearney-Harrington3.1 Glick-Davis3.2 Bienvenidos en PatagoniaWest face5. Chiaro di Luna5.1 Los Angelitos5.2 Super Trek5.3 Can Accompany Only6. Crouch-Brooks6.1 Tical7. Last Gringo StandingSouth face8. Austriaca 9. Attempt10. Le Petit Prince10.1 Driel-Fine11. Condorito12. AstrochossTraverseTravesía Copp-Wharton

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