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Update: last updated on 24/02/2011.

Fitz Roy - East face

28. Un Mar de Sueños

1200m M4 7a A3

Jorge Ackermann (AR) and Michael Lerjen-Demjen (CH), 11/2012.

Description. This long and elegant line follows steep crack systems and dihedrals up the nose of an obvious prow. It is a fantastic line. Up high Un Mar de Sueños shares six pitches with Casimiro Ferrari and Vittorio Meles' 1976 line. In all it climbs 34 pitches, 28 of them new, including several pendulums (23 new pitches left of the Ferrari-Meles lead to six pitches on the Ferrari-Meles and then five more new pitches up and right from it). Little gear was left in place, eight rappel stations in the lower part, and three stoppers in the upper half. No bolts.

History. Ackermann and Lerjen first attempted the line in January 2012, making another attempt during the austral winter, in August. Every time they started climbing from the very bottom, having fixed no ropes, climbing in perfect alpine style. The ascent took three days, with bivouacks after the first twelve and twenty two pitches, reaching the summit on day three at 5:30PM, descending through the night to reach the base early in the morning of their fourth day.

Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.


Photos (click to enlarge)

East Pillar

Fitz Roy southeast face

East Pillar

Fitz Roy southeast face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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