Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Roy east face

Fitz Roy southeast face

Brecha east face

Brecha west face

1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up

650m 55° 6c (6a/C1)

Guido Magnone and Lionel Terray (France), 2/2/1952. Alberto Bendinger, Eduardo Brenner, Marcos Couch and Peter Friedrich (Argentina), 10/3/1984.

Description. This is a link-up of the Francesa with a more direct Argentine variation, and is the “normal” route up Fitz Roy. It is a very direct and logical line. The Argentine variation branches off the original Francesa after the third pitch, and follows a steep dihedral, rejoining the first ascent route after five pitches.

From the top of the third pitch of the Francesa climb two mixed pitches up and slightly left, to reach the base of a steep dihedral (2 pitches 5+/A1 or 6b+) leading to “La Araña”, a spider shaped snowfield half way up the southeast face. Continue up for two more pitches, climbing an icy chimney full of loose blocks and a narrow thread of snow to reach the ridge. A few moderate icy pitches give access to the upper headwall. There are a few possible variations in this upper section, all equally difficult. Most parties climb left of a prominent prow, up a steep corner, but it is far far easier to climb to its right following the line climbed by Magnone and Terray. The last 200 meters are not difficult (45°), but require crampons and ice tools.

This route is often climbed in one day from Paso Superior, although unplanned bivies are common. There are many suitable bivouac ledges en route.

History. The first ascent party fixed ropes on the approach gullies and on the first 60 meters. They worked partly as two independent teams, until their final attempt when they decided to join forces. During an early attempt Peter and Alberto managed to reach “La Araña”, but where forced to retreat due to bad weather after a cold bivouac, while Marcos and Eduardo spent hours digging their equipment cache buried under heavy snowfall. During the second ascent, in 1985, Mike Graber, Gallen Rowell and Dave Wilson (USA) made a slight variation, branching left from the original line two-thirds of the way up, following a line that they hoped would be easier, but was not. Solo ascents. Miyazaki Motohiko (Japan), in 12/2/1994 ascended alone, but rappelled with two other climbers. The first unsupported solo was done by Cristoph Hainz (Italy) the 24/12/1994 in only nine hours from base camp. He carried a single 50 meter rope, which he used to self belay on six occasions, three cams, three quickdraws and four nuts. Winter ascent. Paolo Crippa, Dario Sprefacio and Danilo Valescchi (Italy), 5 to 8/8/1988, this was the second winter ascent of the peak. Female ascents. Silvia Fitzpatrick (AR) 1988, many others since. Tina di Batista (SI) and Monika Kambic (AR-SI) first team female ascent of the route and the peak, 2004.

Descent. Rappel anchors are in place along the line of ascent. It is possible to descend this route with a single rope, but it is not recommended.

Bibliography.
First ascent: Desnivel 14 p. 48-51 and great documentary video here.
Rowell: AAJ 1986 p. 97-100
Motohiko: High 142 p. 41.
Hainz: AAJ 1996 p.237; High 152 p. 14.
Crippa: Revista della Montagna 108.