Fitz Roy - East face


8. Hudičeva Zajeda -Diedro del Diablo

900m 90˚ 6a A2

Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo and Francek Knez (Slovenia), 8/12/1983, with support from Stane Klemenc (Slovenia), to the col behind the Goretta pillar, where they joined the Casarotto route.

Description. This climb follows the big dihedral between the east face and north pillar. It still awaits a second ascent.

History. Jeglic, Karo and Knez completed the ascent with the use of fixed ropes, and retreated upon joining the Casarotto route at the col between the final headwall and the Goretta pillar. It is unrepeared and still awaits an integral ascent to the summit. This was the first of many successful Slovenian expeditions to the area. Carlos Comesaña and Jose Luis Fonrouge (Argentina) attempted this line in late 1962. The original route name is in slovene and means "devil's dihedral".

Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.

Descent. Raps anchors along the route, but a descent via the Franco-Argentina would likely be more convenient.

Bibliography. Savenc F. - Krusic M. -1992- Na Vrhovih Sveta, Zalozba Mladinska Knjiga, Ljubljana, p.42-43; Planinski Vestnik 1985/3 p. 98-103; AAJ 1984 p.216-219;

Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Roy east face and north pillar

Fitz Roy east face