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Update: last updated on 10/10/2015.

Fitz Roy - East face

8. Hudičeva Zajeda -Diedro del Diablo

900m 90˚ 6a A2

Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo and Francek Knez (Slovenia), 8/12/1983, with support from Stane Klemenc (Slovenia), to the col behind the Goretta pillar, where they joined the Casarotto route.

Description. This climb follows the big dihedral between the east face and north pillar. It still awaits a second ascent.

History. Jeglic, Karo and Knez completed the ascent with the use of fixed ropes, and retreated upon joining the Casarotto route at the col between the final headwall and the Goretta pillar. It is unrepeared and still awaits an integral ascent to the summit. This was the first of many successful Slovenian expeditions to the area. Carlos Comesaña and Jose Luis Fonrouge (Argentina) attempted this line in late 1962. The original route name is in slovene and means "devil's dihedral".

Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.

Descent. Raps anchors along the route, but a descent via the Franco-Argentina would likely be more convenient.

Bibliography. Savenc F. - Krusic M. -1992- Na Vrhovih Sveta, Zalozba Mladinska Knjiga, Ljubljana, p.42-43; Planinski Vestnik 1985/3 p. 98-103; AAJ 1984 p.216-219;

Photos (click to enlarge)

Diedro del Diablo

Fitz Roy east face and north pillar

Diedro del Diablo

Fitz Roy east face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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