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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - North face

11. Polaca

900m 6a A2

Wieslaw Burzynski, Miroslaw Falco Dasal, Michal Kochanczyk, Jacek Kozaczkiewicz and Piotr Lutynski (Poland), 24/12/1984.

Description. This route takes an obvious line up the dihedral just right of the Goretta pillar. The climbing involves a series of mixed gullies in the lower part, that lead to snow ramps, slabs and mixed climbing to reach the dihedral proper, which it climbs until it meets the Casarotto at the col below the upper headwall (1250m altogether). Generally the rock is good, but in the evenings there is some rock fall danger from the summit snowfields. The central ramps offer several ledges for bivouacking. The climbing involves several pendulums and treacherous aid climbing.

History. The first ascent party was part of a seven-man expedition from Krakow, Poland. They reached the summit after spending a total of 12 days on the route, 8 on the final push and 2 more on the descent. They used a total of 800 meters of fixed ropes, which turned out not to be enough, so they took out some of the fixed lines from the easier middle section to be able to fix the upper part of the route (180 meters fixed over the col). This route is still unrepeated. At the col behind the Goretta pillar they met Alan Kearney and Robert Knight who were in the process of making the second ascent of the Casarotto route, with a variation. This kind of “possy” gathering happened again in late 2008 just a few meters away, on top of the Goretta pillar, when 8 climbers bivied together there.

In 1975 Australians Robert Staszewski and Rick White made an alpine style attempt to establish a route starting just left of the one later completed by the Polish team, climbing seven pitches before being forced to retreat due to bad weather and lack of equipment. They tried several more times, but could not climb any higher. In the 1975/76 season a South African team also attempted a line in this area of the wall. The team included Eckhard Druschke, Jerry Linke, Romy Stapley, Herman Vogl and Clive Ward.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Polish: Taternik 1985/1 p. 29-31; AAJ 1985 p.240; GHM 1985 p.16; Peñarala 439 p.43.
Australians: AAJ 1976, p.504-505.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Fitz Roy north face

North face

Fitz Roy north and west face


Fitz Roy north pillar

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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