Fitz Roy - North face


29. Samba do Leao


1300m 6b+

Flavio Daflon, Sergio Tartari, (BR) and Luciano Fiorenza (AR), 1/2013.

Description. They started left of Tehuelche, climbing nine new pitches to reach the ledges leading to the Gran Hotel. From there they climbed virgin ground between Clinica de Aventura and The Hoser Chimney, climbing 11 new pitches to the NW ridge. At this point they joined The Hoser Chimney for two or three pitches before crossing the Afanassieff and heading right onto the steep headwall leading to the summit, climbing eight more pitches following a line immediately left of the Rocamora-Tarditti variation to the Afanassieff. In all they climbed 30 pitches with difficulties to 6c. The second wall, between the Gran Hotel and the NW ridge involves mostly finger and hand size crack climbing, with a single off-width pitch (6b+).

History. The route was climbed alpine style over three days. The name, "the samba of the lion", reffers to the fact that eash day they had to "kill a lion", climbing each of the three major steep steps the route has.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.