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News and major updates

A big thank you to all of those who over the years have donated to help mantain this webpage: here.

SOUTHERN PATAGONIA - 2018/19 Season summary of important ascents, first ascents, accidents and risk management considerations: here.

SOUTHERN PATAGONIA - 2018/19 Season

Below is a list of the important ascents or first ascents done this season. For a summary see the link above.

CHALTEN MASSIF

Cerro Solo
- North ridge, new route: Alpinisisima.

Cerro Torre
- Complete north face, attempt.
- Southeast Ridge, seventh and eigth ascents. Beware that a key hold broke and two pitons were ripped in the lower Lama variation.

Torre Egger
- West face, attempt, 21 days spent on the wall over two attempts! Photos and first hand account here, here, here and here.
- East face, Marc-André's Vision, variation.

El Mochito
- El Camino del Guerrero, new route, solo.
- Mosca para Mujer, new route.
- Straight outta Nipo, new route.

El Mocho
- Bizcochuelo, first free ascent.

Aguja de la Medialuna
- North face, Harvest Moon, new route.

Aguja Bifida
- East face, alternate start to Cogan.
- Northeast face, Siren to Cogan variation, photos here.

Cerro Ríncon
- Comesaña - Palma, ski descent.

El Tridente
- West face, El Hedonista, new route.

Aguja Guillaumet
- For once no new routes or variations. What a relief.

Cerro Chalten / Fitz Roy
- Via Californiana at 69! "Oldest ascent" of Fitz Roy.
- El Corazón, fifth ascent.
- Via Afanassieff, first solo, free-solo up and down.
- Via Afanassieff at 64! "Second oldest" ascent of Fitz Roy.

Aguja Poincenot
- Patagonicos Desesperados, first free and onsight ascents.

Aguja Rafael Juárez
- West face, "Viaje sin fin" variation to Quilombo.
- West Ridge, first solo, done free-solo, downclimbing the Anglo American.

Aguja Saint Exupery
- West face, Chiaro di Luna, free-solo ascent, downclimbing the Kearney-Harrington.
- First paraglider flight off the summit, here.

Aguja de l'S
- East face, Haizea, new route.

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Cerro San Lorenzo
- Pilar Sur aka "El Faro", first ascent.

----

South of Lago Viedma
- Cerro Nahumaday, first ascent.

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TORRES DEL PAINE

Paine Grande
- Estilo Andino, new route. Photos here, here, and here.

Aguja de los Quirquinchos
- East face, The Skidmark, new route, more photos here.

Aleta de Tiburón
- East face, The 600lbs Amoeba, new route, more photos here.

Cuerno Este
- East face, line to 50m below shale band, Riveros-Secul, more photos here.

Cerro Peineta
- South face, Puro Filete, new route, more photos here.

Cerro Almirante Nieto
- Southeast face, Linea de Libertad, new route; more photos here.
- East face, Genesis, more photos here.

Monte Balmaceda
- First winter ascent and first aski descent, here, here, and here.


"THE PATAGONIAN SUBLIME: The Green Economy and Post-Neoliberal Politics."

Anthropologist Marcos Mendoza has just published a revealing analysis of the El Chalten area. The book lays bare the issues behind the green economy, dives deep into the social fabric of the town, addresses mountaineering and trekking, takes a close look at APN’s regulatory approach, touches on grassroots actions and a long etcetera. If you are socially and academically inclined, and plan to visit the area, buy a copy. A review here. You can buy it here.

CHALTEN MASSIF - 2017/18 Season

Cerro Solo
- Southwest face, new route: French Connection
- West face, new route: Los gringos no comen llajua

Cerro Adela Sur
- Filo Este, variation: "Variante Rumana"

Punta Filip
- West face, new route: "Espera que pegue"

Cerro Pollone
- Northwest face, new route: "Maracaibo"
- Cumbrecitas - Hombro Oeste, "Carstenissima" alternate start: Directa

Aguja Guillaumet
- Amy-Vidallhet,
first solo winter ascent of the peak
- East face - ¡Aupa 40! variation
- Another east face mixed link-up
- Pilar del Quinto Sol,
rock pillar between the Amy and Guillot
- Guillotina sort of a free ascent, but not quite.
- Comesaña - Fonrouge, 11hs car to car via the Giordani Sit Start.
- Cumbre Sur - Plata o Plomo variation
- Disfrute la Vida - free ascent (old news from 3/2017)

Aguja Mermoz

- East face: Marcoz-Stagnetto-Sullivan variation

Aguja Val Biois
- East face, new route: La Torcida

Cerro Chalten / Fitz Roy
- 10:37 ascent of the Afanassieff.

Aguja Rafael Juárez
- Filo Oeste, alternate start: Los Millenials

CERRO CATEDRAL - FREY
Segunda edición / second edition

La segunda edición de la guía de Frey esta disponible. Incluye innumerables correcciones y las muchas vías nuevas que se han abierto desde la primera edición. Más información

The second edition is available. It includes countless corrections and updates, as well as the many new routes opened since the first edition. More information

CERRO CATEDRAL - FREY

Actualización 02/04/2017

En este link se puede encontrar una lista de correcciones y adiciones a la guía publicada en 2014. Se incluyen las muchas vías, variantes y sectores nuevos abiertos desde entonces. Muchas gracias a Matías Korten y a José Bonacalza por su ayuda para preparar esta actualización. Cualquier otra adición o error que se encuentre, se agradece hacernos saber a través de la página de contacto.

CHALTEN MASSIF - 2016/17 Season

Cerro Huemul
. El tren que no puede parar, new route on the east face.

Cerro Solo. Dong Patrol, new route on the north side and west ridge.

Cerro Solo. Chossopotamia, new route on the southwest face.

El Mocho. Moribito, new line on the north face.

Torrisimo. "Sandy Eyes", supposed new line, further details lacking.

Torre Egger. Second winter ascent, second solo ascent, first winter solo ascent via a link-up on the east side by Marc-Andre Leclerc.

Torre Egger. First continuous (integral) and free ascent of Titanic by Marc-Andre Leclerc supported by Austin Siadak.

Cerro Pollone. First solo and winter ascent of the peak via the South Face.

Colmillo Sur. Califlores new route, east face.

Aguja Guillaumet. New route on the east face ¡Aupa 40!.

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Cerro Murallón. David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella have climbed a new route on the east face of Cerro Murallón.


2nd Edition / 2nda Edición

An updated second edition of the guidebook to the El Chaltén Massif is available. It includes the 60 new routes climbed since 2012, a re-edited text, at least half of the photos are new, and many other improvements.

La segunda edición de la guía del Macizo de El Chaltén está disponible. Incluye las 60 rutas abiertas desde el 2012, un texto re-editado, más de la mitad de las fotos fueron cambiadas y un largo etcetera de mejoras sobre la edición anterior.

CERRO PAINE GRANDE19/05/2016

Cerro Paine Grande is the tallest and bulkiest peak in the Torres del Paine National Park. It has been climbed only four times: 1957, 2000, 2011 and 2016. It certainly deserves far more attention. The purpose of this write-up is to give a quick overview of what has been done. There are still a few things that require sorting, particularly the line followed by the Japanese expedition back in 1969. Read on.

CERRO CATEDRAL - FREY03/01/2016

La sección de Cerro Catedral - Frey ha sido completamente actualizada, incluyendo agujas recientemente exploradas, nuevas vías y los foto-topos de la guía publicada en fin del 2014.

También hemos creado una página con las correcciones y actualizaciones a la guía. A todo aquel que este por visitar Frey le sugerimos imprimir el pdf y agregarlo a su copia de la guía.

Topónimos / Toponyms

Antes de dar nombres a accidentes geográficos (cumbres, puntas, coles, etc) sugiero leer este artículo por Evelio Echevarria, un andinista chileno que lleva más de 50 años explorando y documentando la actividad de montaña a lo largo de los Andes.

Before giving toponyms to any geographic point (summits, sub-summits, saddles, etc) I suggest reading this article by Evelio Echevarria, a chilean climber and explorer that has dedicated much of his life to exploring and documenting ascents across the Andes.

© 2019 Rolando Garibotti.

PATAGONIA VERTICAL -
Macizo de El Chaltén

A complete guidebook to the Chaltén Massif. Winner of the Guidebook Award at the Banff Film and Book Festival. The second edition is now available. Read more

Una guía completa para
las montañas del Macizo
de El Chaltén. Ganador del Premio a la Mejor Guia de Montaña en el Festival de Cine y Libros de Banff, Canada. La segunda edición esta disponible y se puede comprar desde esta página.
Mas información

PATAGONIA VERTICAL -
Cerro Catedral - Frey

Guía completa para
las agujas del Cerro Catedral, zona del Refugio Emilio Frey, Bariloche. Segunda edición. Más información

A complete guidebook to the towers of Cerro Catedral, area of Refugio Emilio Frey, Bariloche. Second edition.
More information

Updates & Corrections

25/05/2019
Torrisimo, Sandy Eyes route line.

01/05/2019
Updated the length of the Tetons Grand Traverse, from Alex Lowe's late 1990s 14-mile estimate, to Teton Ranger's 17.9 miles, apparently meassured with GPS. Thanks Teton Ranger for the correction.

27/04/2019
Torrisimo, Donini's Anatomy route line.

25/02/2018
Después de 42 años de la primera ascensión, apareció la cordada que abrió "Anónimo Yankee" en El Abuelo. Fueron Bronwyn y Murray Judge de Nueva Zelanda, en 1976. Habria que cambiarle el nombre a "conocido neozelandés"...

24/02/2018
Fixed a bunch of crap on the Pollone section. Now Tridente has its own page, Cumbrecitas too. Took the liberty to rename a nameless route that Carsten put up: "Carstenissima", and call his also nameless Gran Gendarme to Tito Carrasco traverse: "Carsten's Traverse". It seemed like a good way to remember someone that loved the area so much and contributed in so many ways.

24/02/2018
Some corrections courtesy of Hugh Logan
- Cerro Solo Cara Este headwall variation
- Cerro Mojón Rojo Cara Noroeste.

08/02/2018
- Two new and more detailed topo / photos for the Motocross and Care Bear Traverse.

30/12/2017
- Fixed somewhere around 80 broken links... oops. Hopefully now there are just a hadfull.

12/03/2017
- Variation on Cerro Solo.

12/03/2017
- Variation on El Zorro, Mojón Rojo.

10/03/2017
- The Cerro Murallón section has been updated.

12/01/2017
- Actualizada la sección sobre el Cerro Colorado. Ahora hace falta registrarse en la oficina de la CONAF en Chile Chico. El resistro es gratis pero obligatorio.

Update to the Cerro Colorado page. Now you must register in the CONAF office in Chile Chico. Registration is free but mandatory.

26/6/2016
- Some corrections to the Cerro Paine Grande page courtesy of Hilton Davies.


Recent articles and other

__________________________________________

Completing the Puzzle2/2015

Over the past four decades, Cesare Maestri's claimed ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959 with Toni Egger has been widely discredited. An abundance of evidence has shown that their high point was only a quarter of the way up. What has remained a mystery is where they actually went during the seven days that Maestri said their round trip required, and from which Egger never returned. New information gives us unequivocal proof of a place they visited that, curiously, Maestri never mentioned and that is nowhere near his claimed ascent, and certainly no place one would unintentionally wander or forget. Read on

Addendum. Cesare Maestri's response has been predictable, if not sad.

Second addendum. Bruno Detassis detailed report: no mention of an outing to the col north of Col Standhardt in this report or in any of the extensive bibliography of the expedition.

___________________________________________

Peak lists. Your pick, your peaks.3/1//2015

There have been various peak lists claims over the years. Here is a look at the possible peak lists of the Fitz Roy Range and the Cerro Torre group. Continue reading.

___________________________________________

Gestión de Riesgo - Risk Management17/12//2014

El gran número de accidentes que ocurren en comparación al número de usuarios es preocupante. Acá presentamos un primer intento a una ayuda memoria sobre los puntos a tomar en consideración antes de embarcarse en una ascensión. Sugerimos también leer las paginas de la guía relacionadas con “como sobrevivir” y rescates. En español pdf aca.

The huge number of accidents that have been happening in comparison to the number of users is worrisome. Here we present a first attempt at a list of considerations to take into account before embarking on a climb. We also suggest reading carefully the pages of the guidebook that relate to staying alive and rescue. English pdf here.

___________________________________________

More "articles" here.


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CLIMBING AREAS
Chaltén Massif
Cerro San Lorenzo
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Cerro Catedral/Frey
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