El Tridente


1. La Piqueta Voladora
2. The Secret of the Mountain
3. Knob-mania
4. El Hedonista

El Tridente is a formation with three very disntinct summits located immediately north of Aguja Tito Carrasco, in the ridge linking this to the Gran Gendarme.

Photos (click to enlarge)

El Tridente – East face

1. La Piqueta Voladora

230m 75º M4

Jack Cramer and Drew Smith (US), 1/2014.

The first ascensionists approached via the couloir immediately north of Tito Carrasco. An initial lower angle ice ramp leads to a leftward trending snow traverse, followed by a 60m ice-filled squeeze/chimney and easier climbing through blocks to reach the summit. They encountered good rock and pleasant yet groveling climbing.

History. They named the route "La Piqueta Voladora". The name refers to the fact that they only had three ice tools between both of them and because the crux pitch was too hard to follow with a single tool Jack decided to attempt a risky throw of the 3rd tool back down the gully. Miraculously their expensive piece of gear avoided the bergschrund, among other obstacles, on its long and fortuitous slide and came to stop in the snow at Drew's feet. After calming his very real fear of impalement, Drew was able to easily follow the pitch.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi.

Descent. Via the same route.

East view

West view

El Tridente– West face

2. The Secret of the Mountain

400m 70˚ WI4 M6 6a C1

Justin DuBois, Allen Riling and Edward Corder (US), 1/2014, to the base of the summit pinnacle.

Climbs an obvious gully to traverse right across a hanging snowfield, up and then down, to hit the upper rock ridge which is climbed in three pitches (C1 M6, 5+, 4). The mixed ground to reach the hanging snowfield there is runout (M6).

History. The first ascensionist retreated from the base of the summit pinnacle, without reaching the summit.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi.

Descent. Via the south face to reach the gully between Tito Carrasco and Tridente, and then down this back to the base.

West view

West view

El Tridente– West face

3. Knob-mania

300m 7c

Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama - Takaaki Nagato, 1/2016.

Knobmania climbs 10 pitches (400m climbing; 300m vertical gain) with difficulties to 7c.

The pitches go as follows: 30m 6b+; 20m 7c; 25m 6a+; 40m 7a+; 50m 6c; 60m 6a; 50m 6a; 30m 6a; 45m 2; 50m 5.

History. "Jumbo" and "Nagato" climbed the route free. The crux pitch was done pinkpoint (with pre-placed gear), on the fourth go, the others were redpointed. The name refers to the second pitch, that has a beautiful traverse on knobs.

Climbs with this level of free climbing difficulty seldom happen in Patagonia, where the “anything goes” (aid, jumaring, etc) attitude is still the norm. Undoubtedly free climbing is where the future lays. This sport relies on a good number of “crutches” (compromises), and it is clear that the fewer, the better. Kudos to “Jumbo” and “Nagato” for the commitment to freeclimbing.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi.

Gear. For a repeat carry doubles to #3, 1 ea. 4 & 5, 6 TCUs, stoppers.

Descent. Via the south face (four rappels) to reach the gully between Tito Carrasco and Tridente, and then down this back to the base.

West view

West view

El Tridente– West face

4. El Hedonista

250m 50˚ 6b+

Julian Ferhmann, Martin Lopez Abad, Diego Simari (AR) 2/2019.

Starts and finishes via The Secret of the Mountain, climbing 250 meters of new terrain up a beautiful pillar in the center, 400m altogether.

Gear. Doubles to #3, 1 # 4, TCUs, Stoppers.

Descent. Via the south face (four rappels) to reach the gully between Tito Carrasco and Tridente, and then down this back to the base.

West view

West view