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Update: last updated on 03/11/2010.

Cerro El Mocho – North face

9. Greetings from Bad Men

400m 6a 95°

Jörn Heller and Robert Jasper (Germany), 14/11/1994.

Description. For the first four pitches climb an ice gully that starts to the right of Frader Pisafe, which it joins for one pitch (pitch 6), then continue left for two more pitches to reach the summit snowfiled. The third pitch is a very narrow goullote that overhangs to 95°. Nine pitches total.

History. Heller and Jasper climbed the route in 5 hours.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Descend via Frader Pisafe.

Bibliography. Alpin magazine 1995/3 p. 8-9; High 152 p. 14; Klettern 1995/6 p. 37; Vertical 78 p. 49; Climber magazine 5/95 p. 7.

Photos (click to enlarge)


El Mocho - north face


El Mocho - north face



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El MochoEast face 1. Espolón Este2. Voie des Benitiers3. Todo o Nada5. Bizcochuelo5.1 Jingus variation North face6. Grey Yellow Arrow6.1 Moribito14. The Approach Team line7. Little Big Wall13. Dulce de Leche8. Frader Pisafe9. Greetings from Bad Men10. Reggae Time11. AnitaSouth face12. Back to the Front

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