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Update: last updated on 03/11/2010.

Cerro El Mocho - North face

8. Frader Pisafe

400m 6c+

Ermanno Salvaterra and Adriano Cavallaro (Italy), 28/12/1993.

Description. Climb an obvious red dihedral in the lower half. The climbing is mostly easy (5 to 6a) with a single short section that goes free at 6c+. It is a very high quality climb, well worth repeating. Likely the best one in this face of El Mocho.

History. The first ascentionists dedicated the route to German climber Andreas Kiwscher who died while descending from Fitz Roy in early 1994.
Franco Nicolini, Sandro Ballardini, Ferrucio Vidi and Pier Paolo Vidi attempted this route in October of 1993, climbing the lower half. The route’s name attempts to honor all the climbers that were involved in this first ascent: “Fr”: Franco, “ad”: Adriano, “er”: Ermanno, “Pi”: Piergiorgio, “sa”: Sandro and “fe”: Ferrucio; Frader Pisafe.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. Desnivel 96 magazine p. 93; Alp magazine 111 p. 18; AAJ 1995 p. 208-209; High magazine 142 p. 40; Annales GHM 1994-95 p. 53; Rivista della Montagna 167 p. 7-8; Bolletino SAT 1994/2 p. 30-31.

Photos (click to enlarge)


El Mocho - north face


El Mocho - north face



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El MochoEast face 1. Espolón Este2. Voie des Benitiers3. Todo o Nada5. Bizcochuelo5.1 Jingus variation North face6. Grey Yellow Arrow6.1 Moribito14. The Approach Team line7. Little Big Wall13. Dulce de Leche8. Frader Pisafe9. Greetings from Bad Men10. Reggae Time11. AnitaSouth face12. Back to the FrontEl MochitoEast & south face The Long Run Dominguez-FernandezNo Bad WeatherCampagnaLa Luna de Miel

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