Aguja Mermoz - East face


7. Vol de Nuit

450m M6 A1 90°

Andy Parkin (UK) solo, 21/2/1993, to the summit ridge. Manu Cordoba (ES) and Korra Pesce (Chamonix) to the summit, end 2012.

Description. Climbs a thin ice runnel to the left of the east buttress. Cross the bergschrund, climb up the ejection cone, move left to a series of icy runnels which slant up left and after a series of difficult mixed pitches gain the right edge of an obvious snowfield, then head straight to the ridge, up a steep couloir leading to an obvious col on the summit ridge, where the route “ends”. There is much 80° to 85° ice, as well as some vertical sections, and much difficult mixed climbing. According to Parkin this was his hardest solo ascent ever, so beware.

History. Vol de Nuit is a 1931 novel by the French writer and aviator Antonie de Saint-Exupéry, but it is also an allusion to the fact that Parkin climbed the route mainly during the night. Parkin retreated from the col 50 meters below the summit. In 2012 Manu Cordoba and Korra Pesce completed it to the summit. Winter ascent. Ian Parnell and Andy Kirkpatrick (UK), in August 2002. They also retreated upon reaching the summit ridge.

Approach. Paso Superior to Glaciar Grande Superior.

Descent. Descend via the same route.

Bibliography.
Parkin: High Magazine 129 p. 10; AAJ 1994 p. 184.
Cordoba: Desnivel #320, 2/2013, p. 8-9.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Mermoz east face

Aguja Mermoz east face