Aguja Mermoz - East face


8. Ferrari-Ceballos

500m 5+ A3

Martín Ceballos (Argentina) and Casimiro Ferrari (Italy), 4-7/1/1994.

Description. Climbs a steep line on the center of the east gave, starting just above the snows ramps of Vol de Nuit.

History. Ferrari and Ceballos fixed ropes on the first four pitches and then climbed on making two bivouacs on the wall. The first few pitches were fixed with the help of Marco Durá, Guillermo Durá and Jorge Tarditti (Argentina). Ferrari and Ceballos met by chance a few days before the ascent, and although Ceballos had little experience Ferrari decided to complete the route with him. This ascent took place exactly twenty years after Casimiro’s first ascent of the West face of Cerro Torre. When he was asked how did he managed to stay motivated after all these years he answered: “I think it depends on the fact that I am not very well know, and that I have managed to focus on other things in life, such as my factory and family. Or at least by not having image problems I have managed to continue making my own decisions, in a way that neither Messner nor Bonatti managed to”.

Approach. Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. Lo Scarpone 1994/3 p. 10-11; High Magazine 142 p. 41.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Mermoz east face