Aguja Mermoz - West face


4. Barriga Patagonica

600m 6a+ A1

Zlatko Koren and Klemen Mali (Slovenia), 12/2/2000.

Description. An esthetic line up the west face involving several wide cracks and a traverse in the 9th pitch. 16 pitches total.

History. Koren and Mali fixed the first 120 meters to then climb the route in one continuous 18 hour push. They retreated upon reaching the summit ridge some 50 meters below the summit. The line was first attempted by Swiss Vicent Banderet and Paul Maillefer in 1985, who retreated after climbing nine pitches when they encountered an overhanging off-width crack.

Approach. Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of Guillaumet’s NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base.

Descent. The first ascentionists descended the same line, having to reverse the traverse of the 9th pitch.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Mermoz west face

Aguja Mermoz west face