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Update: last updated on 24/01/2013.

Desmochada - West and east face

6. Puerta Blanca

6.1 Von Birckhahn variations

300m 6b A0

Alexander Huber (Germany) and Mario Walder (Austria) 9-10/2/2007.

Description. The approach involves easy scrambling lead to a steep grey pillar (6 pitches to 6a) followed by easier terrain (7 pitches, to 5) and a gully to reach the col immediately between Desmochada and Silla which the first ascensionists dubbed “La Puerta Blanca.” From here traverse to the east side of the peak and climb six pitches to reach the summit (300m). Alexander describes it as being “a very long and involved alpine route” and points out that in the lower part there is no shortage of objective danger (rock fall). 1300m altogether.

History. The route was climbed alpine style over two days, with one bivy at the col. The 1000-meter "approach" to the col was first "traveled" by Bridwell, Dunmire and Smith while descending from Desmochada and later climbed almost in its entirety by Bonapace and Ponholzer during attempts on the west face of Silla.

Approach. Niponino.

6.1 Von Birckhahn variations.

Carsten von Birckhahn (DE) climbed two variations to approach the upper part of Puerta Blanca (250m 6a A0).
6.1a with Juan Canale (AR) and Dominik (last name?), 6b
6.1b with Colin Haley (US) 50˚ 3
In both cases he approached via the Poincenot couloir climbing under a scary looking serac.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Desmochada east face


Desmochada west face


Couloir Poincenot SW view

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Aguja DesmochadaWest face1. El CóndorSouth face 2. Golden Eagle2.1 Brass Parrot link-up3. The Sound and the Fury3.1 Free variation4. Dieta del Lagarto5. El FacónEast face6. Puerta Blanca6.1 Variation7. Circus Pets8. CodaTraverseThe Wave Effect


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