Aguja Standhardt – East face

5. Motivaciones Mixtas

Linking to Exocet: 800m 90˚ M6 6c C1 altogether

In 1993 Pepe Chaverri (SP) and Teo Plaza (AR) made an attempt to 70m below the summit via an independent line in the headwall. In 2015 Luca Bianco, Giacomo Deiana and Francesco Salvaterra (IT) climbed the lower 2/3s linking into Exocet.

Description. Originally it was attempted as a completely independent line, combining the steep lower pillar with the less inviting upper headwall. Recently the lower pillar, which offers superbe climbing, has been climbed into Exocet (800m 90˚ M6 6c C1), a line that because of its quality might become a classic of sorts.

History. In 1993 Pepe Chaverri (SP) and Teo Plaza (AR) climbed to 70 meters from the summit. Pepe and Teo made close to ten alpine style attempts over several weeks. During one of them, they reached a point 200 meters below the summit, with Lorenzo Ortiz. On their last attempt, without Ortiz, they reached the base of the upper headwall in one day, and bivied. The following morning they climbed to near the end of the difficulties when Teo was hit by icefall. He suffered a broken femur. They were at the easy slabs leading to the summit mushroom, at the end of the headwall. To avoid falling debris they descended 20 meters to the right of their ascent line, leaving their line of ascent devoid of any trace of passage. It was thanks to Ermanno Salvaterra that they manage to get Teo to the hospital the following day. The named their attempt "Motivaciones Mixtas".

Teo died in an avalanche on Cerro Tronador less than a year later. Lorenzo died while attempting to descend from the summit of K2 in 1995. Pepe and his two partners fell t ther deaths during an ascent of the north face of Grand Jorasses in 2000.

In 2006, Americans Dean Potter and Steph Davis climbed Exocet to the base of the chimney, then moved left and climbed a line in the headwall that might be the same that Teo and Pepe climbed. In all they climbed 6 pitches, of which most required aid. See Potter-Davis route.

In early 2015 Josh Huckaby, Joel Kauffman and Mikey Schaeffer (US) climbed the lower pillar but retreated from the base of the headwall. Under the parameters used in this website and in the guidebook Patagonia Vertical, that stipulate that joining a pre-existing line is a valid conclusion to a new route, the credit for the first ascent of the lower pillar should go to Josh, Joel and Mikey. But in cases such as this one, where the original attempt climbed well past that point, at a time when the pre-existing line did not exist, we hold off to give first ascent credit to the first party to link it to the summit. Messy enough?

In late 2015, Luca Bianco, Giacomo Deiana and Francesco Salvaterra (IT) climbed the lower pillar (450m M6+ 6c C1) into Exocet, continuing on via this to the summit (800m 90˚ M6 6c C1). This might become the preferred line, because it links the gorgeous rock pillar in the lower half to the stunning Exocet chimney up high. Based on the explanation on the previous paragraph, the first ascent of the lower pillar should go to Luca, Giacomo and Francesco, who decided that the name originally given to this attempt should remain.

Approach. Niponino, toward Col Standhardt, then left at the base of Standhardt.

Gear. Doubles to #3, 2 ea TCUs for the lower pillar.

Bibliography. AAJ 1994 p. 178-183; Desnivel magazine 93 p. 12-13, p. 92; Desnivel magazine 96 p. 54-60; High magazine 142 p. 38-39; GHM 1994-95 p. 11.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Torre Egger and Aguja Standhardt

south face

Torre Egger and Aguja Standhardt

southeast face

Aguja Standhardt east face