Aguja de la Silla - South face


4. El Bastardo


500m 6c+

Alexander and Thomas Huber (Germany), Mario Walder (East Tyrol), and Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland), 1/2008.

Description. In the lower part, on the west face, the route follows Puerta Blanca, a route climbed previously by Alexander on Aguja Desmochada. At the col between the two towers, they moved east, to the base of a massive crack system on the steep south face of De la Silla. The first 300m are really steep and the climbing is dominated by dihedrals and some really long off-widths. Most of it can be climbed free, but due to icy conditions the first ascentionists aided a few short sections. The summit is reached after 12 pitches, the last two in common with the Filo Este route.

History. The route was climbed alpine style over two days. Supposedly the name refers to Mario, who wasn’t baptized by the priest of his hometown because he was born to a single mother. Alex and Mario had tried this line one year earlier.During the first ascent they aided a few of the crux sections, climbing the route at 6b A0.

Free ascent. In early 2016 Colin Haley and Alex Honnold completed the first free ascent, simul-climbing the route in two pitches as part of their 17hs ascent of the Wave Effect Direct.

Approach. Niponino to Col Puerta Blanca .

Descent. Via the same route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja de la Silla south face

Aguja de la Silla south face

Aguja de la Silla southeast face

Aguja de la Silla soutwest face

Aguja de la Silla southeast face