Aguja Innominata - West face


6. West ridge


700m 6b+

Greg Crouch and Jim Donini (USA), 2-3/12/1996 to the Anglo-American. Paul McSorley and Jon Walsh (Canada) in 2/2005 to the summit.

Description. Starts on the lower left side of the west pillar from where 24 pitches lead to the junction with the Anglo-American route, 4 pitches from the summit. Seven pitches of mixed climbing lead to the base of two obvious right leaning cracks that split at the first tower on the ridge. Climb the left crack (2 pitches, 6b/A1) and continue up the ridge weaving around the upper towers on the ridge for 12 pitches (mixed climbing and convoluted horizontal route finding). This route was first climbed in “wintery” conditions so repeats can expect to find very different conditions. During the second ascent the route was climbed free at 6b+.

History. Due to serious dehydration and exhaustion the first ascentionists retreated after joining the Anglo-American route, during their second day on the climb. Since they were not able to reach the summit and since they consider that an “alpine route” is not complete unless the summit is reached, Crouch and Donini did not considered it a first ascent and refused to name it. In February 2005 Canadians Paul McSorley and Jon Walsh made the second ascent, first free ascent and first integral ascent of the complete west buttress all the way to the summit. Walsh described his ascent of the route as “a very fun day on great rock.” In 2011 Argentines Flavio "Manzana" Renzacci and Paula Pera did a "sit start" to this route starting to climb in the slabs right above Polacos adding a further 300 meters of climbing to this already long route.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponinos to Polacos.

Descent. Via the Anglo-American route.

Bibliography.
High 176 p. 78; AAJ 1997 p. 252-253.