Aguja Poincenot - North face


6. Banana Wall


550m 6c C1 M6

Sacha Friedlin and Frédéric Maltais (Quebec), 17-19/1/2008.

Description. Climbs a line just to the left of Old Smugglers. It is a very sustained line, with 6a to 6b climbing on every pitch. A few sections required aid to to avoid icy sections. The first three pitches up the Aguja Kakito couloir involve mixed climbing (pitch 3 is M6). The route was climbed in fairly wintery conditions, so late season repeats might find dry rock instead.

History. The first ascent was done alpine style over three days. They placed no bolts or pitons and descended via the Whillans so there is not one bit of gear in place. They named the route Banana Wall in honor of the curving geometry of its high-quality granite cracks that graced almost every pitch.

Approach. Niponino to Couloir Poincenot.

Pro. A late season repeat, in dry conditions might require less ice gear than the first ascent party used.

Descent. Via the Whillans or the Patagónicos Desesperados to the east or via Old Smugglers back to the base.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot north face