Aguja Poincenot - East face


4. Whisky Time


500m 6c A4

Beat Eggler (Switzerland) and Michal Pitelka (Czech Republic) , 5/2/1994.

Description. Climbs a steep line on the right side of the east pillar, on very good rock but with several wide cracks in the upper part. The first five pitches are quite difficult (6c/A4) and lead to an obvious crack, which begins as an off-widht and finished 45 meters higher as a fist crack (6b). The following four pitches are vertical hand and fist cracks (6b), and provide some of the best climbing to be found in the area. From the top of a small pillar head left (6b/A1) to climb the last three pitches of Patagónicos Desesperados to the summit. All belays are equipped with two bolts, enabling a fast retreat from the summit.

History. The first ascentionists used fixed ropes in the lower portion of the route, the lower half. Free ascent. In 2/2018 Seán Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee (BE), freed the aid pitches, the second pitch went at 7a, the third at 6c+, the fourth was free climbed by making a variation, traversing left into the off-width crack right from the belay. They reached pitch ten, but unfortunately high winds did not allow them to finish the route.

Approach. Paso Superior and Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.

Descent. Via the same route. All belays equipped with bolts.

Bibliography. AAJ 1995 p. 216-217, High Magazine 142 p. 41-42, Annales GHM 95/96 p. 66.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot east face

Aguja Poincenot northeast face

Aguja Poincenot northeast face