Aguja Poincenot - Southeast face


20. Vía Russo


750m 6b A4 M4

Sergey Dashkevich, Mikhail Devi, Evgeniy Dmitrienko and Arkadiy Seregin (Russia) 12-18/2/2012.

Description. Climbs a steep and imposing line left of Bagual Bigwall to join the Sperone degli Italiani route, along which it continues to the top (1200m altogether).

History. The route was climbed capsule style, moving camp twice during the ascent, one at the top of pitch 4, at the base of the steep wall and a second one just below the ridge. Mikhail Devi has an incredible resume having climbed new routes in Aksu, Thalay  Sagar, Spantik, Shinga Charpa, Baffin, etc.

Approach. Laguna Sucia and Glaciar Río Blanco Superior.

Descent. The first ascensionists descended the Sperone degli Italiani.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot east face

Aguja Poincenot southeast face

Aguja Poincenot southeast face