Aguja Poincenot - West face


9. Carrington-Rouse


400m 6a+

Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse (UK), 22/2/1977.

Description. A very fine alpine route. The climbing is varied, from fine face climbing, to lay-backing on flakes, to a chimney and an odd mixed groove. The upper portion of the route follows the Fonrouge-Rosasco, which in turn joins the Whillans-Cochrane.

History. They climbed alpine style, employing three days round trip from the Torre glacier. The first ascensionists had done one attempt a few days before, during which they were forced to retreat half way up the ramp due to bad weather.

Approach. Niponino to Couloir Poincenot.

Descent. Via the same route (take plenty of cord and stoppers), via Judgement Day (involved), or east, via the Whillans-Cochrane, by far the easiest descent.

Bibliography. Mountain Magazine 58 p. 18-21; AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Climbing Magazine 47 p. 5-11; Andinismo 1977/1 p.56?.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot north face

Aguja Poincenot west face