Aguja Poincenot - Southwest face


16. Historia Interminable


550m 6b+ A2

Fernado Cobo and Maximo Murcia (Spain), 9/1/1987, to the junction with the Fonrouge-Rosasco.

Description. It starts just below the SUSAT col -between Innominata and Poincenot-, climbing nine easy pitches (6a+) to reach the base of a steep headwall. This headwall involves ten pitches of difficult climbing, with numerous wide cracks and some thin aid climbing. The first three pitches on this headwall follow a difficult flake, that towards the upper part is so wide that the first ascentionists were forced to aid climb a small crack to the side (A3).

History. After many failed attempts, a short break in the weather allowed the first ascentionists to climb to the end of the headwall and reach the moderate terrain leading to the summit from where, high winds, a coming storm and the late hour forced to retreat, after having joined what they thought was the Fonrouge-Rosasco route. In the ledge at the base of the steep wall they placed a portaledge, as a fixed bivouac for each subsequent attempt. Above that point they fixed 250 meters of rope. Since they did not have any big friends they were forced to travel to Calafate –which at the time was an ordeal- to borrow one from a local climber. While descending, they pitched a haul bag from the base of the headwall with most of their equipment inside in hopes of recovering it in the snow couloir. Unluckily the wind blew it in the wrong direction and it exploded half way down the face, scattering the gear everywhere, which due to heavy snowfall they were unable to find. A few years later Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding, while completing the first ascent of Judgement Day were surprised when in a ledge they found a full rack. The route was completed with the help of Miguel “El Morta”, who acted as support team, taking care of basecamp and helping carry loads. In reference to the route name, Cobo wrote, “We fought against the craziness that the wind produces, against our own desires. We had accepted it all, in hopes of being able to close this chapter, this ‘history’. We finished the route but we did no conclude our story.” The route still awaits an integral ascent.

Approach. Polacos to Forcella SUSAT.

Descent. Judgement Day.

Bibliography. Extrem magazine 1987, 24 p. 38; Peñarala 1988/1 p 5-9; Desnivel magazine 28 p. 64-68; Desnivel magazine 29 p. 29.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot southwest face

Aguja Poincenot southwest face

Aguja Poincenot southeast face