home climbing areas field notesknowledgedisclaimercopyrightcontactdonate

Update: last updated on 09/11/2011.

Cerro Pollone - main summit, east summit

Travesía del Pollone

800m (ca. 450m new) 7a A0

Scott Bennett and Blake Herrington (USA), 02/2011.

Description. The first ascensionists started 45 meters up and left from the toe of Cerro Pollone’s west pillar, climbing a series of left-facing corners, discontinuous cracks, flakes and overlaps. This initial section is a four-pitch variation start to A Fine Piece which starts 50 meters or more to the right of the toe of the west pillar. After joining A Fine Piece at the end of it’s seventh pitch they continued up it for another seven pitches to the top of the pillar. This is where A Fine Piece ends, before a long horizontal ridge. From there the first ascensionists climbed five more pitches to the summit of Cerro Pollone via good rock and mostly easy climbing (one short bit of 6b) following a line parallel and possibly at times similar to the first ascent route. The free-climbing crux to this point is a well-protected right-leaning crack on the 4th pitch (7a). The rock is fantastic and many of the middle pitches feature knobs and pockets.

From the summit they headed east, to the East summit (slightly lower), traversing across a long previously unclimbed ridge, passing the top-out of the summit-less Mastica e Sputa. They rappelled off of two gendarmes and found some bad rock on the final gendarme before the east summit. Here they used a few points of A0 to surmount an overhang.

History. The first ascent was completed in alpine style and jumar-less, free with the exception of the final gendarme before the East summit. On the route they bivied only once, at the top of their 12th pitch. Theirs was the second ascent of Cerro Pollone's main and east summit, climbed in 1949 and 1/2011 respectively.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi. Be sure to explore the way to the base of the route carefully. The first ascent party ended up in a ridge too far to the north having to climb three approach pitches before realizing they were 200 meters above their intended starting point, separated from it by a glacial tongue with seracs.

Descent. Same as for the route Re Puesto!, via the south face, west of the south ridge, then down via the Mastica e Sputa descent.

Photos (click to enlarge)


West view


West view


Cerro Pollone - South face


Please Do Not Reprint This Article
This article is copyrighted. Please do not reprint this article in whole or part, in any form, without obtaining written permission.

if you find any mistakes or if you have additional information, please go to the contact page and let us know.

Pollone Group Cerro Pollone1. Cara Sur2. Pilar Oeste, A Fine Piece15. Maracaibo14. Escama del Dragon Pollone Cumbre Este8. Re Puesto!3. Mastica e Sputa3.1 Rayuela3.2 El Busca Jesus4. Beg, Borrow or Steal Aguja Stefan5. Aguja Stefan Aguja Pollone 1. Cara Sur2. La Granja3. Joviejo4. Sit-Start & Traverse5. Alternate Sit-Start Aguja Tito Carrasco6. Cara Oeste7. Cara Norte12. Terroir11. Zigzag8. Ippon9. Atari10. Halle Berry Punta Amistad13. Alegría El Hombro11. Free Cowboy Hats Gran Gendarme del Pollone1. Cara Este2. Witches Brew3. No Entiendo4. The Perfekt Day El Tridente1. La Piqueta Voladora2. The Secret of the Mountain3. Knob-mania4. El Hedonista Cumbrecitas4. Cumbrecitas - Kauffman5. Cumbrecitas - Cramer6. Cumbrecitas - Carstenissima7. Hombro Oeste - Directa Pollone TraversesTravesía del PolloneGendarme a Co. Pollone - "Carsten's Traverse"Aguja Pollone Sit-Start & Traverse


If you find this web page useful, please consider making a donation

Chaltén Massif
Cerro San Lorenzo
Cerro Murallón
Cerro Riso Patron
Cerro Catedral/Frey
Tetons (USA)

Trail restoration work