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Update: last updated on 15/11/2011.

Gran Gendarme Del Pollone

2. Witches Brew

250m 7a C2

Crystal Davis-Robbins and John Verbeck (USA), 2/2011.

Description. The face is rather featureless so the start of the route is quite obvious, up a right facing corner with various cracks to its left that connect into it. The first pitch starts with a finger crack and traverses over to a dihedral (hands and fists) to a ledge (6b+). The second pitch climbs a short offwidth to a finger crack in a dihedral, then around a corner and over a boulder (6b/6b+). The third pitch starts with some scrambling into a right facing corner that thins out (tricky pro), then opens back up (offwidth) to a few exciting moves at the end (7a). The forth pitch involves a steep hand and fist crack over a bulge to finish with a thin finger crack around a corner (6c+). From here a thin seam to the right connects to an overhanging thirty meter offwidth with loose flacks dangling off of it (7a A2). The next couple pitches follow a giant black dike that starts left of the offwidth and slowly traverses right on easy terrain that leads to the ridge and to the Carrington-Rouse line.

History. The first ascensionists retreated upon reaching the ridge, in the vicinity of the Carrington-Rouse line.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi, then up, and up...

Descent. Down the south ridge in three rappels and much scrambling.

Photos (click to enlarge)


West view


West view

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Pollone Group Cerro Pollone1. Cara Sur2. Pilar Oeste, A Fine Piece15. Maracaibo14. Escama del Dragon Pollone Cumbre Este8. Re Puesto!3. Mastica e Sputa3.1 Rayuela3.2 El Busca Jesus4. Beg, Borrow or Steal Aguja Stefan5. Aguja Stefan Aguja Pollone 1. Cara Sur2. La Granja3. Joviejo4. Sit-Start & Traverse5. Alternate Sit-Start Aguja Tito Carrasco6. Cara Oeste7. Cara Norte12. Terroir11. Zigzag8. Ippon9. Atari10. Halle Berry Punta Amistad13. Alegría El Hombro11. Free Cowboy Hats Gran Gendarme del Pollone1. Cara Este2. Witches Brew3. No Entiendo4. The Perfekt Day El Tridente1. La Piqueta Voladora2. The Secret of the Mountain3. Knob-mania4. El Hedonista Cumbrecitas4. Cumbrecitas - Kauffman5. Cumbrecitas - Cramer6. Cumbrecitas - Carstenissima7. Hombro Oeste - Directa Pollone TraversesTravesía del PolloneGendarme a Co. Pollone - "Carsten's Traverse"Aguja Pollone Sit-Start & Traverse


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