Aguja Tito Carrasco - North face

7. Cara Norte

400m 35° 6b

Joel and Neil Kauffman, and Jim Toman (USA), 2/2010.

Description. Climbing a snow couloir to just below the col north of the tower. A flaring crack and a pitch on the east side of the ridge bring you to a series of ledges that give access to the upper headwall, which was climbed via crack systems on its west face.

History. The first ascent was done in a day from a camp at the Marconi glacier.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi.

Descent. Via the same route.

7.1 Zigzag

Lukas Pflug-Sebastian Straub-Carsten von Birckhahn (DE), 1/2013.

Description. Zigzag climbs six new pitches in the lower half of the west face to then traverse to the north side to join the Cara Norte route. They placed three bolts in the crux dihedral and bowed to return to straighten their "zigzagging" line.

Photos (click to enlarge)

West view

Tito Carrasco - Pollone - N face

Tito Carrasco - Pollone - W face