Aguja Tito Carrasco - West face

8. Ippon

300m 7b A0

Katsutaka Jokoyama and Ryo Masumoto (JP), 2/2014.

Description. Altogether it climbs 400 meters (10 pitches), starting left of Zig Zag (120m 5+) which it joins for one pitch, the crux pitch (35m, three bolts in place, climbed at 7b A0 but it might go free at around 7b+), continuing up a very clean and varied corner (40m 6b+, 60m 7a, 45m 6b, 45m 6b+) to join the Cara Norte three pitches from the top (3, 6a and 5+). The rock is of superbe quality.

History. The first ascensionists retreated after having joined the Cara Norte route, retreating when they were merely 10 meters below the summit. The name of the route means "straight line" in Japanese.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi.

Gear. Doubles to #2, one each to 5.

Descent. The first ascensionist descended Atari, but it might be preferable to descend the Cara Norte or Cara Oeste routes.

Photos (click to enlarge)

West view

Tito Carrasco - Pollone - N face

Tito Carrasco - Pollone - W face