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Update: last updated on 06/10/2013.

Gran Gendarme Del Pollone

1. Cara Este

250m 5+ A1

Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse (UK), 15/12/1976.

Description. The route involves 7 pitches on good granite up a steep wall then, higher up, up a bottomless chimney choked with ice that leads to some ice grooves and the summit (bring basic ice gear!).

History. The first ascensionists were quite surprised to find the summit decorated with much hairy lichen defying the elements. The west face of this tower, some 550 meters high, remains unclimbed. In 2008 Ramiro Calvo and Marcello Cominetti made the only repeat of this route to date.

Approach. Marconi glacier, then up and up, to a saddle very close to the summit on Loma Blanca. Dont blame me if you decide to hike all the way there for so little climbing... that said the view is unbelievable, well worth the walk from my perspective.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. Mountain magazine 58 p. 18-21; AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Climbing magazine 47 p. 5-11.

Photos (click to enlarge)


View from the southeast


West view


Gran Gendarme - East face

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Pollone Group Cerro Pollone1. Cara Sur2. Pilar Oeste, A Fine Piece15. Maracaibo14. Escama del Dragon Pollone Cumbre Este8. Re Puesto!3. Mastica e Sputa3.1 Rayuela3.2 El Busca Jesus4. Beg, Borrow or Steal Aguja Stefan5. Aguja Stefan Aguja Pollone 1. Cara Sur2. La Granja3. Joviejo4. Sit-Start & Traverse5. Alternate Sit-Start Aguja Tito Carrasco6. Cara Oeste7. Cara Norte12. Terroir11. Zigzag8. Ippon9. Atari10. Halle Berry Punta Amistad13. Alegría El Hombro11. Free Cowboy Hats Gran Gendarme del Pollone1. Cara Este2. Witches Brew3. No Entiendo4. The Perfekt Day El Tridente1. La Piqueta Voladora2. The Secret of the Mountain3. Knob-mania4. El Hedonista Cumbrecitas4. Cumbrecitas - Kauffman5. Cumbrecitas - Cramer6. Cumbrecitas - Carstenissima7. Hombro Oeste - Directa Pollone TraversesTravesía del PolloneGendarme a Co. Pollone - "Carsten's Traverse"Aguja Pollone Sit-Start & Traverse


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