Cerro El Mocho - North face

6. Grey Yellow Arrow

450m 7a A0

Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo and Francek Knez (Slovenia), Roberto Pe (Italy), 10-11/12/1986.

Description. Follows a strenuous crack system in the left most part of the north face. A very steep line on very good rock, that would likely go free.

History. It was climbed in two days, regaining the highpoint via an obvious ramp that leads to the half way mark. This was one of Pe’s four new routes in a month long visit to the area.

Approach. Niponino.

Bibliography. Mountain 119 p. 12; Annales GHM 1987 p. 36; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1987/4 p. 36-44; Rivista della Montagna 84 p. 12; Desnivel magazine 30 p. 29.

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6.1 Moribito

180m 6c+

Takaaki Nagato and Yusuke Sato, 2/2017.

They started up Grey Yellow Arrow but after two pitches went left, into an amazing looking corner which they climbed in four pitches (160m 6c+). At the big break they joined Bizcochuelo, free climbing through it (6b+) to re-join Grey Yellow Arrow to the top, free climbing the last pitch at 6c+. They named their new line “Moribito”, which means guardian in Japanese, a reference to their favorite novel, a popular fantasy series written by Nahoko Uehashi.

Photos (click to enlarge)

El Mocho - north face

El Mocho - east face

El Mocho - north face