Cerro El Mocho - North face

8. Frader Pisafe

400m 6c+

Ermanno Salvaterra and Adriano Cavallaro (Italy), 28/12/1993.

Description. Climb an obvious red dihedral in the lower half. The climbing is mostly easy (5 to 6a) with a single short section that goes free at 6c+. It is a very high quality climb, well worth repeating. Likely the best one in this face of El Mocho.

History. The first ascentionists dedicated the route to German climber Andreas Kiwscher who died while descending from Fitz Roy in early 1994.
Franco Nicolini, Sandro Ballardini, Ferrucio Vidi and Pier Paolo Vidi attempted this route in October of 1993, climbing the lower half. The route’s name attempts to honor all the climbers that were involved in this first ascent: “Fr”: Franco, “ad”: Adriano, “er”: Ermanno, “Pi”: Piergiorgio, “sa”: Sandro and “fe”: Ferrucio; Frader Pisafe.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. Desnivel 96 magazine p. 93; Alp magazine 111 p. 18; AAJ 1995 p. 208-209; High magazine 142 p. 40; Annales GHM 1994-95 p. 53; Rivista della Montagna 167 p. 7-8; Bolletino SAT 1994/2 p. 30-31.

Photos (click to enlarge)

El Mocho - north face

El Mocho - north face